Costumes for Indian Women

Costumes for Indian women have seen a wide range of changes in forms, patterns, colours and ways of draping. Although the traditional wear of Indian women are sarees, today Indian women wear designer dress adorned with urban styles. Out of all the various ranges of costumes for the Indian women, Salwar Kameez is definitely an all time favourite. Another competitor is Chaniya Choli popularly known as Ghagra Lehanga Choli. New arrivals include Sharara, Garara and Lancha with tight fitting tops rather than usual Choli with deep side cuts, which give a chic look. Such costumes are the latest Indian trends, which give a choice for the Indian women to experiment with a complete variety of looks.

The saree is a costume par excellence among the costumes of the entire world and the innumerable modes of wearing it offers to its wearer are really amazing. On first thought, it may seem that fashions in the sari style of dress have not much scope-it is basically a covering garment or a drape-and that there has been hardly any change in the mode of wear, but a closer observation would reveal that changes in fabrics, woven designs, embroidery, printing and dyeing have provided scope for unlimited fashions in saris. A Sari is not an anatomic costume; all can wear it and fold it according to their preferences, by adjusting its length and breadth to suit the wearers` dimension. The development of the sari-style in India and the factors that have influenced the woman`s wardrobe tell a story of aesthetic and socio-economic progress resulting in the simplification and standardization of woman`s dress to a large extent.

Sarees were very much in fashion in a traditional Indian wedding. Even In today`s wedding functions woman prefers to wear saris in different styles. Fashion designers have come up with new ways to drape wedding sarees, which are quite popular among today`s woman. Saris always had a sensuous and elegant look at the same time. The wedding sari or Bridal sari is given a lot of importance in India. Indian Saris come in different fabrics from cotton to silk, from georgettes to crapes, from traditional like Banaras9+i to Kanjeevaram Saree or a silk. Wedding saris are given a lot of emphasis in Indian family. It ranges from few thousands to few lakhs of rupees.

Saris today have a lot of work done on them. They come in various varieties and styles. Zari, embroidery, organza, zardosi, sequence, cut work, mirror work, patchwork, pearl work, kasab, kundan, are all different kinds of work, which are found in sari. Earlier it was compulsory for Indian brides to wear heavy Benarasi sari for her wedding but now it is not so but still brides are preferring to wear saris for their wedding, however the styles and embroidery has changed. Earlier it was lot more heavy work and rich now it is lot more sleek and light in fabric.

Salwar kameez is the traditional dress worn by various peoples of south-central Asia. It is also popular among women in India. Some versions are sometimes called a Punjabi suit, after the Indus Valley Civilization area called the Punjab. Salwar are sort of loose pyjama-like trousers. The legs are wide at the top, and narrow at the bottom. The legs are pleated or gathered into a waistband. There is a drawstring at the top of the waistband to hold up the Salwar. The pants can be wide and baggy, or they can be cut quite narrow, on the bias. In the latter case, they are known as churidar. The Kameez is a long shirt or tunic. The side seams (known as the chaak) are left open below the navel, which gives the wearer greater freedom of movement. The Kameez is usually cut straight and flat; older kameez use traditional cuts. Modern Kameez are more likely to have European-inspired set-in sleeves. The tailors taste and skill are usually displayed not in the overall cut, but in the shape of the neckline and the decoration of the Kameez.

When women wear the Salwar Kameez, they usually wear a long scarf or shawl called a dupatta around the head or neck. For Muslim women, the dupatta is a less stringent alternative to the chador or burqa. For Hindu women (especially those from northern India, where the salwar-kameez-dupatta is most popular), is useful when the head must be covered, as in a temple or the presence of elders. For other women, the dupatta is simply a stylish accessory that can be worn over one shoulder or draped around the chest and over both shoulders.

The modern women also wear jeans and other kinds of westernized dresses like gowns and frocks in varied designs and patterns. Indian costume for women has an unimaginable ground of creativity and innovation, where one can dress according to her taste and preference. Starting from sari to the modern dresses, Indian women portray elegance and smartness in every form and costumes for Indian women today has reached the zenith of artistry. Various fashion shows and exhibitions are best evidences to prove the art of costumes for Indian women.

Costumes for Rajasthani Women

Costumes for Rajasthani women are much like the region and culture itself that are equally colourful. The status, moods, emotions and even the seasons are portrayed by the costumes of the Rajasthani women. Probably, all the colour and splendour of the state is reflected in the vitality of their dress and ornament.

Ghaghra Choli of Rajasthani Women
For centuries, the costumes for Rajasthani women have featured a specific pattern of dressing that is particularly unique to that very state. The most commonly worn by the women in Rajasthan has been a combination of upper garment clothing that includes the "Puthia" or "Kanchli" and "Kurti"; and the lower garment clothing that includes the "Ghaghra" or skirt and the veil or "Odhni" that is draped to flow across the upper and lower parts of the body. There are numerous variations and additions to this ensemble across and within communities, depending on the wearer"s social position. However, these three items of dress comprise the essential costume that is typically worn by women in Rajasthan even today.

Factors for Costumes of Rajasthani Women
The most important factor that determines variation in a woman"s costume in Rajasthan, within a community is her marital status. Bright colours, heavy ornamentation and rich fabrics that is associated with marriage, fertility and the status of a woman"s life. In sharp contrast, a widow"s dress, though similar in style, is dull in colour and lacks embellishment, emphasizing abstinence. Numerous variations in style, cut, colour and embellishment are clearly visible in the various communities of Rajasthan.

The costumes of Rajasthani women are also an indicator of social status. For instance, the Rajput women, who belonged to the highest social order, customarily followed the Pardah system where women`s movements were, by-and-large, limited to the zenana. Their costume, in the privacy of the women`s quarters, could be elaborately decorated and free of restriction. Their Ghaghras were fairly short exposing beautiful leg ornaments, as are portrayed in numerous paintings. However, as the Pardah became outdated, Rajasthani women"s attire saw corresponding-changes to ensure the preservation of feminine modesty in public places. Therefore, the length of the Ghaghra was increased to avoid exposing any part of the leg and feet. The present day Rajput Ghaghra now trails on the ground that however looks even more beautiful. In contrast, many women who work in the fields wear Ghaghras, which end about 10 cm. above their ankles, as dictated by their occupation. They also wear leg and ankle bracelets that are not just for adornment, but also as protection against brambles and bites as they walk through the fields.

In some parts of Rajasthan, a single coloured Odhni tells that girl has not yet reached puberty, a large Bandhani circle on one corner of the odhni states that she is married; and a single large circle in the centre, in bright red, tells that she now is a mother. When the colour deepens, the circles become shadowy that means she is a widow. These concepts of form, colour and ornament are an integral part of the heartbeat of oral thought and tradition.

Costumes of Rajasthani women has been a dazzling piece of attire since ages and with the passage of time many more process have been implemented to make these costumes even more beautiful. However, the traditional style of Rajasthani attire still exists with few modern embellishments.