Introduction

Embroidery Work in India is carried out in Punjab, Uttar Pradesh, West Bengal and many other regions. Buttonhole or Blanket Stitch, Running Stitch, Cross Stitch, Satin Stitch and Chain Stitch are some of basic techniques of stitching used in Indian Embroidery. It has also given way to machine stitching with the advent of the industrial era. There are diverse varieties of Indian embroidery.

Influenced by a variety of cultures, India has downed during numerous invasions and settlements and Indian embroidery from all regions has an essence of its own.

History of Embroidery in India

Themes and designs have stayed as such for centuries. In the pre-historic civilization, it was the same embroidery needles which have been found in excavations. The patterns have always been floral, animals, geometric and religious. Each embroidery style has its own history and a story of expansion. Indian embroidery receives its inspiration from nature and religion. The colours, the bottom, the subject matter and the fashion, all are reflective of a particular area. Embroidery on leather, velvet, net, cotton and silk are through all over the country. The patterns are decided upon on the base of the fabric and its quality with the stitches depends upon the style and the produce to be created.

Materials for Indian Embroidery

The materials used in Indian embroidery like the fabrics and yarns vary from one place to another. Silk, wool and linen are predominantly used for thousands of years for both fabric and yarn. In the recent times, the thread used in traditional embroidery is manufactured in rayon, cotton, as well as traditional wool, silk and linen. In the techniques of canvas work, huge quantities of thread are buried on the back of the work to use more materials but provide a sturdier and more substantial finished textile. Further, in surface as well as canvas work techniques, an embroidery frame is generally used for stretching the material as it ensures that any sort of pattern distortion.

Famous Indian Embroidery

Designs in Indian embroidery are shaped on the base of the surface and the design of the material and the stitch. The dot and the swap dot, the circle, the square, the triangle and permutations and combinations of these form the design. The famous Indian embroideries are as follows:

Aari: Aari work contains a hook, plied from the top but fed by silk fibre under with the fabric spread out on a frame.

Chikankari: Chikankari is a fine and elaborate stitching style which is believed to have been introduced by Nur Jehan, the wife of Mughal ruler Jahangir. A chikan piece is created by block printing patterns on it. Craftsmen then stitch sew along the pattern and the finished piece is later washed to eradicate traces of the prints.

Banjara Embroidery: Banjara embroidery is a mix up of mirrors and beadwork. Bright red, yellow, black and white coloured cloth is laid in bands and joined with a white criss-cross stitch.

Banni or Heer Bharat: The Banni or Heer Bharat embroidery creates in Gujarat and is exercised mostly by the Lohana area. It is done with silk floss and it is famous for its liveliness and richness in colour pallets & design patterns.

Kantha: Kantha work is recognized for its simplicity. Kantha was done on flexible dhotis and sarees, with an easy running stitch along the edges.

Phulkari: Phulkari is the embroidery of flower motifs on textile. Usually practised by women of the house as an amusement, this embroidery is pretty a unique one. The stitches are embroidered on the reverse of the cloth so that the design takes shape in the front.

Chamba Rumal: This embroidery increased in the generous hill states of Kangra, Chamba, Basholi, and other nearest provinces.

Gota: It is a shape of applique in golden thread, used for women"s ceremonial attire.

Karchobi: It is raised zari metallic thread stitching created by sewing flat stitches on cotton lagging. This technique is usually used for bridal and formal costumes as well as for velvet coverings, tent hangings, curtains and the coverings of animal carts and temple chariots.

Zardozi: Original Zardozi work used gold and silver threads as well as pearls and expensive stones and the choice of fabrics too had to be majestic. Zardozi work uses a mixture of copper wire with silver or golden polish and silk threads.

Kashidakari: Kashidakari draws a lot from the flora of the state. However, human and animal figures are not a part of this style of embroidery. An exclusive feature of Kashidakari is the Kashmiri tea pot.

Kashmiri Kashida: Kashmiri embroidery, also known as Kashida is used for phirans and namdahs as well as stoles. It draws encouragement from nature. Birds, blossoms and flowers, creepers, chinar leaves, ghobi, mangoes, lotus, and trees are the most common themes.

Pichwai: Multi-coloured embroidered cloth-hangings made in Nathdwara, Rajasthan. The central themes for Pichwai were focused on Lord Krishna.

Rabari: This very bright embroidery style, by the severe contrast was traditionally used only for garments, but now it can be found on bags, accessories, home furnishings, etc. Mirrors of all shapes and sizes are included in the embroidery, as an effect of the belief that mirrors protect from evil spirits.

Toda: The stitching adorns the shawls. The shawl, called poothkuli, has red and black bands between which the stitching is done.

Applique work is seen in Odisha and Gujarat. It is basically a patch work in which coloured pieces are cut and sewn on a plain cloth. Embroidery of Kutch is known as Aribharat is very attractive. Embroidery of Lambada tribes of Andhra Pradesh is worth mentioning here. It is done on fine cotton or polyester. Kantha stitch is practiced in Bihar and West Bengal. Here the threads are picked from old materials.

Embroidery in Indian Villages

Embroidery is one of the most ancient and popular art forms in Indian villages. It has been an integral part of Indian villagers` occupation since the ancient period and has earned popularity in the international market in modern times as well. Embroidery is actually the art or handicraft of beautifying fabric or other materials using needle and thread or yarn. People sometimes use the other materials like metal strips, pearls, beads, quills, sequins, etc. for doing embroidery as well.

Embroidery has been a major occupation and a major source of income for many villages in India, since the ancient period. In most of the villages, the women are engaged with embroidery work. However, there are many villages where the men have also taken embroidery as their principal occupation and they are earning their livelihoods from embroidery. The Indian villagers are engaged in making various types of embroidery, which are famous all over the world. These include Kantha Embroidery, Chikan Embroidery, Kasuti Embroidery, Crochet Embroidery, Zardosi Embroidery, Beaded Embroidery, Needle Craft Embroidery, etc.

The Chikan Embroidery is a major occupation for many villagers in the central Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. They make different types of Chikan work namely Taipchi, Bakhia, Phunda, Murri, Jaali, Hathkati, Pechni, Ghas Patti, Chaana Patti, etc. and earn their livelihoods. The Chikan Embroidery is also a major occupation for many people in Lucknow. A major occupation for the people in the villages of West Bengal is Kantha Embroidery. Many rural women in West Bengal are experts in making wonderful Kanthas, Kantha embroidery handbags, etc. They make Kanthas on order of their neighbours who would use them for daily purposes and the Kanthas are made for marketing purposes as well. The Kasuti Embroidery is a major source of income for many people in the villages of Karnataka, while the Beaded Embroidery provides employment to several villagers in Andhra Pradesh.

Embroidery in Indian villages is a common source of occupation. The people, mainly the women are engaged with embroidery work in the villages and they earn some extra money for their family by doing embroidery work.

Embroidery in Northern India

Embroidery is an age old tradition prevailing in India since ancient times. Over time, this art has hugely evolved to form a variety of stitches and artworks. Exclusive decoration of fabrics with multicoloured threads, metals, mirrors, beads, stones etc is the essence of this art. Embroidery work has spread in different regions of the country and several regions have developed their unique style of embroideries that gradually became one of the identifying features of their cultural heritage. Embroidery in Northern India has also emerged as prominent artworks of India. A number of beautiful stitches like cross stitch, satin stitch, chain stitch, running stitch etc are used to make attractive patterns.

Embroidery in Punjab : Embroidery is enlisted among the traditional arts of Punjab as a prominent and beautiful art. Different region of the state are known for their exquisite artefacts having embroidery work. Phulkari embroidery is the most renowned embroidery of Punjab which is used in a variety of artefacts including cardigans, table covers, scarves, bedspreads, cushion etc. Fabrics are decorated with threads of vibrant colours and intricate designs. Floral motifs are the most common patterns found dominantly on all traditional attires. Historical facts suggest that the art is about 2000 years old and the Vedas also have the mention of this art. In ancient times, `odhnis` adorned with Phulkari embroidery were highly popular crafts of this state. Another common motif made in Phulkari embroidery is barley and wheat stalks which grow all over the state. Crochet embroidery, also known as Chetipani, is also a famous embroidery practiced in Punjab. Athakupani refers to the embroidery work where different flower designs are joined to form beautiful patterns. Embroidery of Punjab has gained huge recognition throughout the country.

Embroidery in Haryana : Phulkari embroidery is also prevalent in Haryana which is being practiced since a long time. It is mostly practiced by the folk women of the state. Spectacular motifs of flowers, human figures, birds etc are made and the whole fabric is covered with intricate embroideries. The carpets are generally embellished with geometrical patterns. The main centre of Phulkari embroidery in Haryana is Panipat. Combination of colourful threads and diverse motifs in this art is its most alluring feature which displays the creativity of the artisans of Haryana at its best.

Embroidery in Uttar Pradesh : Uttar Pradesh has, since ages, patronized the art of embroidery and different forms of this art have evolved in this state. The most prominent embroidery in Uttar Pradesh is Chikan embroidery. Originated in Lucknow, this type of embroidery involved a number of patterns and stitches to form beautiful decorative motifs. Creepers are the most common motif whereas other motifs are also made with threads of vibrant colours. Different types of stitches are used to render different appearances like darn stitch, satin stitch etc. Embroidery is a traditional art of the state and around 40 stitches have been recognized, out of which 30 are still in practice. Fine craftsmanship of artisans is expressed beautifully through the chikan embroideries. This art has acquired a prominent position in the world market also owing to the appealing look it bestows on the fabric.

Embroidery in Himachal Pradesh : Embroidery in Himachal Pradesh is broadly classified into two categories viz. leather embroidery and rumal embroidery. Embroidery work is mostly carried out by the local women of the state. The most common artefacts of rumal embroidery include scarves, hand fans, prayer gloves, caps etc. Themes of these embroideries hover around majestic landscapes of the state, Ramayana, Mahabharata and Raslila of Radha and Krishna. Threads of dazzling colours are used for making attractive motifs on light coloured fabrics. Exquisite embroideries on leather artefacts is also another popular item of Himachal Pradesh that flourished greatly under royal patronage. Suni embroidery is also practiced widely and includes mainly geometrical patterns. These embroideries are the traditional arts of Himachal Pradesh which have earned great acclamations through the work of deft artists.

Embroidery in Jammu and Kashmir : Jammu and Kashmir is highly famed for beautiful embroidery works. Embroidery of this state is also well known in the international market. Richness and beauty of these embroideries are its two most alluring features. Kashida embroidery is a famous art that includes a variety of stitches like sujni stitch, zalakdosi stitch and buttonhole stitch. It is used to adorn a number of artefacts like shawls, rugs, cloaks etc. Amli embroidery is also used in shawls to make unique motifs with multicoloured threads whereas Do-rookha is another embroidery used to create double sided patterns of vivid hues. Gold and silver embroidery is used to embellish the necks of phirans and gowns. Floral and geometrical motifs are made on floor mats and decorative pieces with chain stitch, cross-filling stitches or appliqu‚s. Pashmina shawls are the most popular artefact of Jammu and Kashmir that exhibit gorgeous patterns and colours.

Embroidery in Rajasthan : Rajasthan has an age old tradition of embroidery work and the craftsmanship of this region has added a new essence to this art. The prominent embroidery in Rajasthan includes gota work, metal embroidery and suf bharat. A variety of artefacts are decorated with beautiful embroidery of Rajasthan such as bedspreads, wall hangings, garments, shoes, animal trappings etc. Embroidery with intricate patterns with multicoloured threads renders an attractive look to the items. Metals, beads and stones are often sewn to the fabrics with different stitches. Zari embroidery that comprises of metallic threads is also quite common in this region and furnishes a gaudy and appealing look. Zari works on curtains, velvet coverings, temple chariot coverings and wall hangings are very popular in Rajasthan. This traditional art is mostly practiced by women belonging to tribal or folk communities. The artefacts are the excellent representations of the brilliant artistic temperament possessed by these artisans.

Over time, a number of artisans have emerged having dexterity in embroidery work. Embroidery adorns a number of artefacts having traditional as well as contemporary appeal. The craft industry in India has also flourished owing to the great demand of this art. Both handmade and machine sewed artefacts are in trend. Embroidery in Northern India has greatly enriched the cultural heritage of the country.

Embroidery in Northern India

Embroidery in Southern India is the manifestations of excellent craftsmanship. Embroidery is an age old tradition which has originated in India since time immemorial. A variety of embroideries have developed in this region over time which has become the unique features of their cultural heritage. Embroidery of southern region is characterized by the intricate patterns made by threads of vibrant hues. Often other elements like metals, beads, precious stones are also used to embellish the fabrics.

Embroidery in Andhra Pradesh : Embroidery in Andhra Pradesh exhibits a unique style. Vibrant and innovative creations are the most prominent identification of the embroidery of this state. Beaded embroidery is practiced on fabrics to decorate clothes and garments with beads of different colours. It renders a fancy look to the fabric. It is an ancient form of art which was also practiced with precious stones to ornament the royal attires. Varied motifs are made with this embroidery including geometric and floral patterns. Banjara embroidery is another form of embroidery which utilizes shells, glass beads, mirrors and coins. Appliqu‚ work is also a famous embroidery of Andhra Pradesh. The patterns used in the embroidery of this region is known for their quality raw materials and unique patterns created by the local artisans.

Embroidery in Karnataka : Karnataka also houses a rich tradition of embroidery. Kasuti embroidery is the most renowned embroidery work of the state having its origin rooted in Chalukya period in 6th to 10th century. Geometric patterns and temple motifs are the identifying characteristics of this embroidery. Apart from this, other motifs include emblems of bells, animals, birds, chariots etc. Threads of vibrant colours are used and common stitches of this art are cross stitch, running stitch, Murgi and Gavanthi stitches. The patterns in this form of embroidery are made in such a way that both the sides of the fabric exhibit similar appearance. This art is mostly mastered by the women folk of Karnataka and the main centres where the artefacts adorned with this embroidery are made include Bijapur, Dharwad and Coorg.

Embroidery in Tamil Nadu : Embroidery of Tamil Nadu is mainly centred in the Sri Perumbpadur region. Beautiful handkerchiefs and saris embellished with different types of embroideries are made in this region. Needle, multicoloured threads and beads form intricate and exquisite patterns on fabrics. `Pugur` style of embroidery is practiced by Todu community of Nilgiri hills to make exclusive shawls. `Jaali` or net embroidery is also a famous art of this state that represents floral or geometrical patterns with the aid of buttonhole stitches. A variety of artefacts are prepared using the charming embroideries of the state by the local artisans.

Most of the embroidery work employs a set of common stitches providing them variations in terms of patterns and colours. Embroidery work has always been in demand in the country and a numerous craft industries have also flourished. Several skilled artisans have developed this art even more by incorporating new ideas and patterns. Embroidery in Southern India is one of the most cherished arts of India.