The art of Embroidery exist from the earlier hand stitching stages to the modern age of machine stitching nowadays. In India examples can be found where rich Indian women from the late 1500s had many dresses that had embroidery in them. The main characteristic of embroidery is that the basic techniques or stitches of the earlier work contains Chain Stitch, Buttonhole or Blanket Stitch, Running Stitch, Satin Stitch, Cross Stitch etc. has given way to Machine Stitching due to the advent of the industrial era.
Classification of Indian Embroidery
Embroidery can be used in diversified manner according to the design that is stitched on top of or through the foundation fabric, and also by the relationship of stitch placement to the fabric. In free embroidery, designs are applied without giving importance to the weave of the underlying fabric.
There is also Cross-stitch counted-thread embroidery which is used in foundation fabric. Counted-thread embroidery is more easily worked on an even-weave foundation fabric such as embroidery canvas, Aida cloth, or specially woven cotton and linen fabrics although non-even weave linen is used as well like needlepoint and some forms of Black work embroidery. In Canvas work threads are stitched through a fabric mesh to create a dense pattern that completely covers the foundation fabric. Traditional canvas work such as Bargello is a counted-thread technique.
Since 19th century Printed and Hand-Printed Canvases came into use where the printed images served as the colour guide that eliminated the need for counting threads. The Printed and Hand-Printed Canvases are suited for Pictorial designs deriving from the Berlin wool work.
Materials for Indian Embroidery
The fabrics and yarns used in traditional embroidery vary from place to place. Wool, Linen, and Silk are predominantly used for thousands of years for both fabric and yarn. Nowadays embroidery thread is manufactured in Cotton, Rayon, and Novelty Yarns and also in traditional Wool, Linen, and Silk. Surface embroidery techniques such as Chain Stitch and Couching or Laid-Work are the most economical of expensive yarns. Couching is generally used for Gold work. In Canvas work techniques, large amounts of yarn are buried on the back of the work to use more materials but provide a sturdier and more substantial finished textile. In both canvas work and Surface embroidery techniques, an embroidery Hoop or Frame can be used to stretch the material and ensure even stitching tension that prevents pattern distortion. Modern canvas work tends to follow symmetrical counted stitching patterns with designs developing from repetition of one or only a few similar stitches in a variety of thread hues. Many forms of surface embroidery are distinguished by a wide range of different stitching patterns used in a single piece of work.
Embroidery in India is a particular style of stitching which has been started in India since earlier centuries. Some states of India showcases immense variety of embroidery works that carry a touch of traditional ethnicity. Indian embroidery has a different appeal to the society as these are handmade items and are recognized for their artistic designs.
Gujarat and
Rajasthan boast of a finest range in embroideries. `Kantha` of Bengal, `Zardosi` of Delhi, `Kasuti` of
Karnataka, `Phulkari` of
Punjab, the gold thread embroidery and `Gota` work of Rajasthan, the `Zari` work of
Hyderabad, the appliqu‚ work and metal-wire embroidery are some of the significant specimens of Indian embroidery.
Embroidery in a nutshell is an expression of a land`s culture and its traditional values of stitching pattern. The embroidery clothes are mainly used for social gathering and happy occasions where lots of vibrant colours are generally used. It also reflects the time period when it is being made. Indian embroidery actually reflects the character and nature of the different places of origin from where it belongs.
