
Costumes of Rajasthani inhabitants are colourful, gaudy, bright and elegant. In fact the state of Rajasthan owes its vibrancy to the attire of the natives. The dull-coloured monotone of the sands and hills appear cheery with the vibrant spirits of the people who wear bright colours to make up for the absence of blossoming flowers. Interesting costumes and jewellery of these desert people are not mere ornaments for them. Everything from head-to-toe including the turbans, clothes, jewellery and even the footwear establish the identity, religion, and the economic and social status of the population of Rajasthan.
The Costumes of Rajasthani people are well defined and are made keeping in mind the climate and conditions in which they live. While pagari (turban), angarakha, dhotis, pyjamas, kamarband or patka (waistband) form integral part of a male`s attire; the female`s attire includes Ghaghara (long skirt), kurti or choli (tops and blouses respectively) and odhni. Rajasthani women usually wear ankle-length long skirts, known as Ghagara, with narrow waist that increases in width like an umbrella at the base. The width and the number of pleats in the `Ghaghara`, symbolise ones wealth. It comes in many colours and styles. The skirt is usually not folded at the lower end like normal skirts but a broad coloured fabric known as `sinjaf` is sewn below to make it stronger. Ghagaras come in many styles but the most popular ones are coloured or printed cotton Ghagharas with laharia, mothra and chunari prints just like the turbans of the males. Odhni is a specialty of Rajasthani costume that is 10 feet long and 5 feet wide; one corner is tucked in the skirt while the other end is taken over the head and right shoulder. Colours and motifs are particular to caste, type of costume and occasion. Both Hindu and Muslims women wear `odhnis`. An `odhni` with a yellow background and a central lotus motif in red called a `pila` is a traditional gift of parent to their daughter on the birth of a son.
In Rajasthan, there is a proverb that says `a raga in music, taste in food and knots in a pagari`, are rare accomplishments. The colour of the turban, its style and how it is tied gets special attention from the people here as it symbolises the caste and region from which the person belongs. People of Udaipur wear a flat pagari, while pagaris of Jaipuriyas are angular and Jodhpuri safa has distinction of having slightly curved bands. Angarakha (translated as the body protector) is usually made up of cotton. On festive occasions, people can be seen wearing tie and dye or printed angarakhas. The two main types of angarahkas common in this region are frock-style and waist-length kamari angarakha and long angarakha that reach below ones knees. There are about 1,000 different styles and types of turbans in Rajasthan, each denoting the class, caste and region of the wearer. Turbans come in all shapes, sizes and colours and there are specific turbans for specific occasions as well. A `pagari` is usually 82 feet long and 8 inches wide. A `safa` is shorter and broader. The common man wears turban of one colour, while the elite wear designs and colours according to the occasion.
Dhotis or pyjamas serve the purpose of covering the lower part of the body. The dhoti is a 4-m by 1-m cotton cloth that needs some practice to tie perfectly. Usually white dhotis are in trend but on special occasions, people also wear silk dhotis with a zari border. People of royal families and upper class used to wear patka, 1½ m by 1m cotton cloths that was kept on the shoulders or worn around the waist to tuck in the weapons in the medieval days. Now, it is no longer used and has become out of date, though, one can still see Brahmins, which continue to put traditional dupattas on their shoulders.
Royal costumes in Rajasthan reflect the regal taste of the state. The rich and luxurious dresses for the royalty were made under the careful attention of special departments in charge of royal costumes while the `Ranghkhana` and the `Chhapakhana` were departments that took care of dyeing and printing the fabrics respectively. The `siwankhana` ensures its faultless and clear tailoring. Two special sections, the `toshakhanand` and the `kapaddwadra`, took care of the daily wear and formal costumes of the king. The Rajput kings, due their close nearness to the Mughal court, dressed up in their colourful and formal best. Richly brocaded material from Banaras and Gujarat, embroidered and woven Kashmiri shawls and delicate cottons from Chanderi and Dhaka were procured at great cost.
With the passage of time, this changing attire reflects the demands of generations, society and dominant paradigms of aesthetics. Today, the traditional costume of the Rajasthani women is almost in a state of transition. The women are opting for new fabrics, designs and accessories. This transition of Rajasthani costumes now becomes more apparent among the affluent, the educated and those who, through their work or otherwise, have gained exposure to a range of other external influences. Similarly, men`s costume has also experienced a significant change. The Rajasthani man is often seen to dress in the urban garb of trousers and a shirt, or, sometimes, in an attractive combination of both urban and traditional garments teamed together. These kinds of mix and matched dresses are however seen all across India nowadays. They provide comfort and utility, while preserving the cultural identity as well. Synthetic fabrics that are easily available, durable and require little maintenance, have been slowly replacing cotton as the favoured choice of the consumer. Also mechanisation in the manufacture of textiles, jewellery, dyes and sewing techniques have enhanced this transformation of Rajasthani costumes.
Popular culture that prevails in Rajasthan is another important influence, which has brought about significant alterations in dress. A major source of inspiration is television and cinema. For Indians in remote villages, especially those in Rajasthan are often their only exposure to glamour, fashion and trends. Similarly, magazines and newspapers act as instrumental in changing mindsets and the way people dress. There is also a rising aspiration to an upward social mobility. Migration and urbanisation are the other forces at play, which contribute to the modifications in traditional costume. However, change has merged harmoniously with tradition, maintaining the spirit of Rajasthani dress.
Modern influences and contemporary demands are affecting dressing habits in some pattern or other. However, traditional garments are still extensively worn in Rajasthan even today. A historical record of costume, techniques of making them and significance of a particular dress code is of immense importance. It emphasises the social and cultural changes in the society over the span of several decades. It is also symbolic of changing lifestyles and social norms, of myriad influences that unite in the essence of contemporary India. The unique patterns of the Rajasthani costumes, the embroideries, weaving and others have made way to the fashion arena as well. In the present times, the native Rajasthani styled costumes have been time and again made available to the masses with contemporary looks. Besides these, the Rajasthani costumes are widely prevalent in many areas of Gujarat, Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh as well.