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Costumes of Rajasthan

Rajasthan is colorful because of what its people wear. The dull-colored monotone of the sands and hills look cheery with the vibrant spirits of the people who wear bright colors to make up for the absence of blossoming flowers. Interesting costumes and jewellery of these desert people are not mere ornaments for them. Everything from head-to-toe including the turbans, clothes, jewellery and even the footwear establishes the identity, religion, the economic and social status of the population of Rajasthan.

The dresses of the males and the females are well defined and are made to go with the climate and conditions in which they live. While pagari (turban), angarakha, dhotis or pyjamas, kamarband or patka (waistband) form integral part of a male`s attire, the female`s attire includes Ghaghara (long skirt), kurti or choli (tops and blouses respectively) and odhani.

Rajasthan - Women`s ClothingWomen`s Clothing
Rajasthani women wear ankle-length long skirts, known as the Ghagara, with narrow waist that increase width like an umbrella at the base. The width and the number of pleats in the `Ghaghara` symbolize ones wealth. It comes in many colors and styles. The skirt is not folded at the lower end like normal skirts but a broad colored fabric known as sinjaf is sewn below to make it stronger. Ghagaras come in many styles but the most popular ones are colored or printed cotton Ghagharas with laharia, mothra and chunari prints just like the turbans of the males.

Odhni is 10 feet long and 5 feet wide; one corner is tucked in the skirt while the other end is taken over the head and right shoulder. Colours and motifs are particular to caste, type of costume and occasion. Both Hindu and Muslims women wear `odhnis`. An `odhni` with a yellow background and a central lotus motif in red called a `pila` is a traditional gift of parent to their daughter on the birth of a son.

Men`s Clothing
Rajasthan - Men`s Clothing In Rajasthan, there is a proverb that states that `a raga in music, taste in food and knots in a pagari`, are rare accomplishments. The color of the turban, its style and how it is tied gets special attention from the people here as it symbolizes the caste and region from which the person belongs. People of Udaipur wear a flat pagari, while pagaris of Jaipuriyas are angular and Jodhpuri safa has distinction of having slightly curved bands. Angarakha (translated as the body protector) is usually made up of cotton. On festive occasions, people can be seen wearing tie and dye or printed angarakhas. The two main types of angarahkas common in this region are frock-style and waist-length kamari angarakha and long angarakha that reaches below ones knees.

Dhotis or pyjamas serve up the purpose of covering the lower part of the body. The dhoti is a 4-m by 1-m cotton cloth that needs some practice to tie perfectly. Usually white dhotis are in trend but on special occasions, people also wear silk dhotis with a zari border. People of royal families and upper class used to wear patka, 1½ m by 1m cotton cloths that was kept on the shoulders or worn around the waist to tuck in the weapons in the medieval days. Now, it is no longer used and has become out of date, though, one can still see Brahmins, which continue to put traditional dupattas on their shoulders.

The Diverse Attire
Royal Wardrobe: The rich and luxurious dresses of the royalty were made under the careful attention of special departments in charge of royal costumes while the `Ranghkhana` and the `Chhapakhana` were departments that took care of dyeing and printing the fabrics respectively. The `siwankhana` ensured its faultless and clear tailoring. Two special sections, the `toshakhanand` and the `kapaddwadra`, took care of the daily wear and formal costumes of the king.

Rajput Costumes: The Rajput kings, due their close nearness to the Mughal court dressed up in their colorful and formal best. Richly brocaded material from Banaras and Gujarat, embroidered and woven Kashmiri shawls and delicate cottons from Chanderi and Dhaka were procured at a great cost.

Turban Styles: There are about 1,000 different styles and types of turbans in Rajasthan, each denoting the class, caste and region of the wearer. Turbans come in all shapes, sizes and colors and there are specific turbans for specific occasions as well. A `pagari` is usually 82 feet long and 8 inches wide. A `safa` is shorter and broader. The common man wears turban of one color, while the elite wear designs and colors according to the occasion.

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