Tribal jewellery in Bihar is always made of natural resources, which are easily available and also very exclusive. Often made of bell metals, brass etc tribal jewelry is the insignia of Indian ethnicity.
The Santhal tribe which inhabits in Bihar usually use many jewellery which are famous countrywide. One of the popular jewellery is subtle earrings that are worked in filigree with various motifs. In this century when people are so advance in technology and in other aspects the tribals tend to use wild grass to make ornaments such as necklaces, armlets, etc. Some of the things, which are very important to make this jewellery, are berries or leaves and flowers.
Women wear a Kardhani, for the waist, and Chudha or bangles for the wrists. For the decoration of foreheads the women generally use tikuli, which is an attractive work on superior glass, finished with water thin tabaque or gold and silver leaves. Women wear this jewellery on their foreheads. There are also some silver jewellery with kundan work and the jhumkis i.e. long or hanging earrings, which are always in trend.
Another important variety of tribal jewellery of Bihar is made of lac. Lac is commonly used for costume jewellery. In northern Bihar abundant rejected lac is used in making bangles. This lac remains in the peak after squeezing. The married women of Bihar state including Bhumji, Mo, Oraon Tribes and Santhal tribes use the bangles that are made out of this lac. Lac, which are in good condition mainly used for decoration. Some of the products made out of this are as follows: lampshades, toddlers push carts, serving bowls, nose rings, decorated with bright red color. These are beautiful examples of craftsmanship. To describe the structure of the bangle this has an inner core and an outer one covered by a thin layer of better quality coloured lac. The inner one is strong one mixed with white clay.
The dry ingredients are heated, mixed together, kneaded and pounded with a hammer. After this heating and shaping process is over the lac is expanded and the bangle diameter is fixed with flat shaping tool. These are usually decorated with glass beads, decorative wire, small bits of geometrically shaped or flower shaped mirrors that are used as embellishments. They are also decorated with gold foil as well as wire and glass seed beads.
