Introduction

Traditional Dresses of North East Indian States gives an identity to the Asian fashion worldwide. North East region of India consists of the eight states namely Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, Meghalaya, Manipur, Mizoram, Nagaland, Tripura and Sikkim. Along with the scenic beauty of North East India, its traditional ethnic clothes represent the true spirit of India. These North East Indian States have beautiful and very unique culture, traditions and lifestyle. There are many tribes and each have a distinct pattern of clothing. People of these states have different traditional dresses and costumes, which only can be explored during the fair and festival season. The real culture and traditions of these States are still alive and followed by the young generation.

Traditional Dress of Arunachal Pradesh

Traditional Dress of Arunachal Pradesh are made of threads and unique patterns that reflect the culture of the tribes they belong to. The dresses worn by women are commonly adorned with fine beads or silver jewellery. The traditional dresses of Arunachal Pradesh include shawls, wraps and skirts. The most significant tribes of Arunachal Pradesh include Adi, Aka, Galo, Nyishi, Bori, Apatani, Bokar and Tangsa. Though the tribes share common ethnic but depending on the geographic region they belong to the dressing style also changes.

While the people of some tribes use a jacket above a sleeveless chemise tied to their waist with a lengthy and narrow strip of cloth, others wear a sleeveless and collarless robe stretching from the shoulders to the knees. Accessories are an important part of the costume in Arunachal Pradesh. "Gurdam", a skull cap made with Yak hair, is worn mainly by Sherdukpan male to complete the look during important occasions. Sherdukpan male generally wears sleeveless silk material till knee-length with its edges attached to the shoulder.  Sherdukpan women wear collarless and sleeveless dresses till knee length, along with waist cloth and a fully embroidered full sleeves jacket.

Tangsa men wear green coloured wrap around spun in white, red as well as yellow coloured yarn. Tangsa women wear a petticoat which is intricately woven and teams it up with a linen blouse. Miji women wear simple long cloack accessorized with huge earrings and neckpieces. Men and women of Adi tribe reside in regions of lower temperature so they wear woolen clothes and jackets. Most of their clothes are made from deer skin, beer skin, or cane skin.

People of Monpa tribe in Arunachal Pradesh are followers of Buddhism and are known for their intricately designed skull cap, style with laces and fringes. Women also wear sleeveless chemise paired with a long jacket.

Traditional Dresses of Assam

Traditional Dresses of Assam comprises of Muga and Pat silk sarees and Mekhla Chador, worn on special occasions. Mekhla Chador is very similar to a half-saree of South India. There are many tribes in Assam, each with its own distinct and unique style of Mekhla Chador, distinguished by motifs, design and colours. The women of Dimasa tribe wear a skirt-like clothing which is called "Rigu" and an embellished vest-like attire called "Rijamphai", sometimes also known as "Rikhaosa". Most Assamese women also wear traditional jewellery like "Gaam Kharu" which are large silver bangles, "Kopo Phool" earrings and "Mukuta Moni" necklaces, unique and charming pieces that add to the charm of one’s attire.

For Assamese men, the Dhoti and Gamosa are considered the quintessential traditional garments. The Dhoti, a long piece of cloth wrapped around the lower half of the body, is a staple not only in Assam but in many Indian cultures. However, wearing it requires skill and practice, making it both an art and a tradition. The Gamosa, a versatile handwoven cloth, is often used as a symbol of respect and pride.

Among the Dimasa tribe, men are easily recognized by their distinctive Sgaopha or Phagri, a turban that signifies honor. These turbans are typically yellow or green, but during weddings and special occasions, grooms wear a white one adorned with a red thread tied beneath the chin, marking the solemnity of the event.

The Bodo community follows a simpler style. Men traditionally use a Gamosa to wrap the body from the waist to the knee, leaving the upper torso uncovered. Women, on the other hand, wear the Dokhna, a single piece of cloth that wraps elegantly from the chest down to the ankles, highlighting grace and modesty.

In the Mishing tribe, men wear the Gonru Ugon, a dhoti-like garment for the lower body, paired with a Mibu Galuk, a shirt-like upper garment. Women in this tribe prefer a variation of the famous Mekhela Chador, known locally as Yakan Age-Gasar, typically in black, representing cultural depth and elegance.

The Rabha community embraces Assamese traditions with the classic Dhoti and Gamosa for men. Women here stand out for their graceful attire, the Koum Kontong, a skirt-like garment wrapped around the waist and adorned with intricate designs that exude artistry. To complete the look, they wear the Kambang, a beautifully woven cloth used to cover the upper body.

Traditional Dresses of Manipur

"Phanek", a wrap-around skirt or "Sarong", a stiff skirt, constitute the traditional clothing of a Manipuri girl, which she wears with pride and grace. The women of Manipur also wear a saree-like cloth, called "Moirang Phi". Different tribes of Manipur have their own distinctive dresses like “Lmaphie”, “Saijounba”, “Ningthoupee,” “Inaphi” and “Phiranji”.

Inaphi, one of the signature garments for women is a delicately woven cloth draped around the upper body, similar to a shawl. Unlike the vibrant and bold textiles seen in many Indian states, Manipuri weavers prefer soft pastel shades that enhance the subtle charm of this wrap, maintaining a sense of poise and grace.

The Phanek is another staple in a Manipuri woman’s wardrobe. Similar in style to a sarong, the Phanek is a wrap-around skirt, but unlike typical sarongs, it is fully opaque, ensuring modesty without compromising on elegance. Traditionally handwoven on loin looms, Phaneks are crafted using cotton, silk, or synthetic fibers. A special variation of this garment is the Mayek Naibi, worn on festive occasions and cultural events. Distinguished by its heavy embroidery and embellishments, Mayek Naibi exudes grandeur, especially with its intricately decorated hemline studded with delicate designs. 

To further enhance traditional attire, Lai Phi and Chin Phi serve as beautiful additions. Lai Phi is a graceful white cloth bordered with bright yellow, often chosen for festivals, weddings, and carnivals. Chin Phi, on the other hand, is a finely designed blouse paired with an elaborately embroidered Phanek, creating an ensemble that radiates cultural richness.

For men, the traditional dress is both simple and classic. A white dhoti, influenced by the Bengali style, paired with a plain kurta forms the base. On special occasions, men accessorize this look with a white pagri or turban, adding an air of dignity and pride. 

When it comes to bridal wear, nothing is more iconic than the Potloi, the traditional wedding attire of Manipuri brides. This striking outfit, dating back to the 1700s, continues to capture hearts with its uniqueness and elegance. The Potloi consists of a cylindrical skirt, richly adorned with motifs and paired with a fitted blouse and an Inaphi. Traditionally made in hues of red, pink, and green, the costume is further enhanced by luxurious fabrics and exquisite embroidery, creating a royal and timeless bridal look.

Traditional Dresses of Meghalaya

Meghalaya is the home to the three famous hill tribes of India such as Khasi, Jaintias and Garos. The dresses of both men and women of these tribes reflects the traditional dresses of Meghalaya. The women from the Garo, Jaintia, and Khasi tribes of Meghalaya look elegant in their traditional wear. Jainsem, Jainkup, Dakmanda, Kyrshah, and Mekhla are the most popular traditional dresses of women in Meghalaya.

A Khasi woman commonly wears an ankle-length costume with a fitted blouse over it, called "Jainsen". Jainsem is one of the most iconic traditional garments worn by the women of Meghalaya, reflecting elegance and cultural heritage. Typically crafted from mulberry silk, this attire is known for its soft texture and refined appearance, making it a symbol of grace and sophistication. The Jainsem is paired with a blouse and complemented by a cotton shawl called Tap-Moh Khlieh, which is draped over the shoulders to complete the look. The garment itself is designed to cover the body modestly, wrapping from the waist down to the ankles, ensuring both comfort and elegance. They also wear chequered cotton shawls over the blouse, called "Tap-Moh Khlieh".

Jainkup is a traditional attire primarily worn by the elder women of the Khasi tribe in Meghalaya. Crafted from woolen fabric, this garment is designed to provide both comfort and elegance, especially in the region’s cool climate.

The outfit is paired with a full-sleeve blouse featuring intricate neck work, adding a refined touch to its appearance. To enhance the ensemble, Khasi women often accessorize the Jainkup with exquisite gold and silver jewelry, reflecting their rich cultural heritage and sense of artistry. Jainkup is not an everyday wear, it holds a special place during significant cultural celebrations, such as the Ka Shad Suk Mynsiem festival, an event that symbolizes gratitude, purity, and the spirit of community.

Garo women usually drape an unstitched garment, woven out of mulberry silk. They are also seen wearing "Eri" silk shawls, as well as a blouse and an unstitched cloth called "Dakmanda", on the lower half of their body. The Dakmanda is a beautifully handcrafted garment that holds a special place in the traditional wardrobe of the Garo tribe of Meghalaya. Woven entirely by hand, Dakmanda has a thick border, and is often decorated with motifs and floral patterns.

Resembling a lungi, the Dakmanda is a wrap-around cloth worn around the waist, typically paired with a blouse to complete the outfit. Despite its simplicity, the garment reflects elegance and cultural pride. Its compact design makes it practical for daily wear of the Garo community.

The women of the Jaintia tribe are seen wearing a sarong called "Thoh Khyrwang", with a velvet blouse. A long piece of Muga silk is tied around their shoulders, flowing down to their ankles. Men of Jaintia tribe often wear a very elegant headpiece known as "Kyrshah".

The Kyrshah is a distinctive piece of traditional attire. This simple yet meaningful garment is a checkered cloth that serves as a head covering, especially during the harvest and post-harvest seasons. Beyond its practical use for shielding against the sun during long hours in the fields, the Kyrshah holds cultural significance. It reflects the tribe’s deep-rooted connection to their land and agrarian lifestyle.

The traditional attire of tribal men in Meghalaya is a striking blend of simplicity and cultural richness. Their outfit typically consists of a long, unstitched cloth wrapped around the waist, resembling a dhoti, paired with an embroidered or embellished shirt or jacket that adds a touch of elegance.

During grand festivals such as Ka Pom-Blang Nongkrem, the attire becomes even more elaborate. Men often carry a ceremonial sword in one hand as a symbol of valor and tradition. Another notable feature is the silk turban, worn with pride during significant occasions like the Ka Shad Suk Mynsiem festival. These vibrant turbans are most prominently seen on male dancers, enhancing the visual splendor of the celebrations. While women in Meghalaya continue to embrace their traditional garments in daily life, men now reserve these cultural outfits primarily for festivals and special events.

Traditional Dresses of Mizoram

Just like any other state of north-east India, traditional dresses of Mizoram is vibrant and diverse for both men and women. A Mizo woman dresses elegantly in full-sleeved attire, the most common among them is a three-piece Churidar-kurta-dupatta set, called "Puan". Apart from this, a long, chequered skirt is worn with a colourful shirt, called "Puanchei", on important occasions like weddings or festivals. Puanchei is counted among the most iconic garments for women as it is a striking outfit commonly worn during grand festivals like Pawl Kut and Chapchar Kut. These long skirts have vertical embroidery in colourful threads, which make them look quite attractive. Known for its elegant patterns, the Puanchei combines black and white shades, where the black sections are often crafted from synthetic fur, giving it a distinctive look.

Another essential piece in a Mizo woman’s festive wardrobe is the Kawrechi. This handcrafted cotton blouse is typically paired with the Puanchei and is especially popular during traditional dances at festivals. Its simplicity and comfort make it a perfect complement to the richly designed skirt. Mizo women are also seen sporting beautiful headgear made of brass and colourful cane, decorated with items like porcupine quills and parrot feathers.

Traditionally, these garments were entirely handwoven, showcasing the intricate craftsmanship of Mizo weavers. While this art form still holds significance, modern technology has transformed production methods to factories, adapting to contemporary demands.

The traditional attire of Mizo tribal women beautifully reflects their cultural identity and social customs. Among the Lusei tribe, women traditionally wear a blue cotton skirt, which forms the core of their outfit. This skirt is usually paired with a white jacket and a draped cloth, creating an ensemble that is both modest and elegant. Completing the look is a distinctive headgear, intricately crafted from bamboo and cane, showcasing the tribe’s craftsmanship and connection to nature.

For unmarried girls, the Zakuolaisen is a significant traditional garment. This blouse stands out for its vibrant crimson stripes, symbolizing youth and festivity. It is commonly worn during cultural celebrations, adding color and vibrancy to the occasion. After marriage, Mizo women adopt a different attire to reflect their new social status. The Puon Pie, a comforter-like woven cloth, becomes an essential part of their wardrobe. Wearing this garment is more than a custom, it is a cultural mandate, symbolizing marital identity and respect for tradition in Mizo society.

Among the Lusei tribe, men traditionally wear clothing made from handwoven cotton, which they often cultivate themselves. Their attire typically features white garments, occasionally complemented by striped blue patterns. While the everyday costumes of ordinary men and community leaders are quite similar, the difference becomes apparent during festivals and ceremonial occasions. In Lusei society, the attire of a warrior is particularly symbolic featuring a cloth wrap for the waist, a rucksack, and dramatic adornments like bear or tiger skin draped over one shoulder, with a gun or weapon slung across the other, showcasing strength and valor.

The Hmar tribe is renowned for its weaving expertise, producing intricate designs that highlight their artistic excellence. One of their notable creations is the Hmaram, a handmade cotton cloth highly popular among children and fondly known as Kawkpui Zikzial.

Equally captivating are the traditional costumes of the Paitei tribe, admired for their striking appearance. Their signature garment, the Thangou Puon, is not just a piece of clothing but a symbol of honor. It is reserved for warriors who have demonstrated exceptional bravery, often in inter-tribal conflicts, making it a rare and prestigious possession.

The Riang tribe, like many others in Mizoram, shares similarities in attire but with its own subtle distinctions. Garments such as the Ngotekherh, a type of Puan traditionally worn by men, have evolved over time and are now popular among both men and women. Another classic piece is the Hmaram, an indigo-colored cotton cloth that, like the Ngotekherh, is now embraced by all genders for its comfort and aesthetic appeal.

One of the most exquisite traditional garments is the Cyhna Hno, a luxurious silk Puan adorned with embroidered borders that enhance its beauty. Worn by both men and women, this stunning outfit reflects the artistry and attention to detail that defines Mizo craftsmanship.

Traditional Dresses of Nagaland

The Naga shawls form an important part of traditional dresses of Nagaland. Often, shawls are considered as a badge of honour, and are gifted to aged and experienced people. For the Angami tribe, the signature shawl is the Lohe, a black cloth adorned with red and yellow bands. Similarly, the Lotha tribe uses shawls to denote social accomplishments, particularly through the genna system, a series of feasts and rituals. A man who has performed his first genna wears a Phangrhup, with its stripes becoming broader after the second genna. After the third, he earns the right to wear Ethasu. The ultimate status symbol is the Lungpensu, a deep blue shawl with five light-blue stripes and narrow side bands, worn after completing all feasts and the stone-dragging ceremony.

Among the Ao tribe, the prestigious Tsungkotepsu stands out as a warrior’s shawl. Decorated with motifs of tigers, mithun (a semi-domesticated bovine), elephants, cocks, human heads, and spears, it conveys power and status. Each motif holds meaning - mithun signifies wealth, elephants and tigers denote hunting prowess, while human heads represent victories in battle.

The Chang tribe boasts the Tobu Nei, characterized by alternating red and black zigzag patterns on a blue base. The Yimchunger tribe offers shawls like Aneak Khim (black) and Mokhok Khim (white), with the revered Rongkhim reserved for warriors who have taken enemy heads. Its bold red rectangular motif symbolizes blood and bravery.

Apart from shawls, men often wear kilts, a working garment, usually black, adorned with cowries. These cowries, polished on stone before being stitched, give the attire a distinctive male identity. Interestingly, the wearer himself sews the kilt, adding a personal touch.

Women in Nagaland are seen dressed in skirts which are, again, different from one tribe to another, and are known by different names as well. Traditional skirts, wrapped tightly around the waist, often measure a quarter meter in length. Some of the popular types of Ao skirts include "Azu Jangnup Su" with red and yellow-black stripes, reserved for special occasions; "Ngami Su" is a fish tail skirt and "Yongzujangau" is a cucumber seed skirt which is woven in red threads on a black base. The women of the Angami tribe wear sleeveless tops called "Vatchi" over a white skirt called "Pfemhou" and a petticoat called "Neikhro".

Kaksi Nei is worn by unmarried boys and girls, while newlyweds don the Silang Nei during celebrations. Women’s clothing is equally striking. Angami women traditionally wear blue and white skirts with thick black bands along the edges. To complete the ensemble, they add a Mechala, a cloth draped over the skirt and paired with a shawl.

For men, similar styles are accompanied by ornaments like bangles, pendants, and bracelets, lending a ceremonial appeal. Men often wear Rhikho, a plain white cloth with four black bands, signifying those who have not yet hosted feasts or achieved major victories.

Certain garments, like the Moyer Tusk, a dark blue cloth featuring zigzag patterns at its edges, and Alungstu, a yellow-dyed cloth adorned with floral designs, signify wealth and success. These costumes, meticulously crafted by tribal artisans, not only embody beauty but also narrate the wearer’s social standing and achievements.

Traditional Dresses of Sikkim

Traditional Dresses of Sikkim shows diversity and exemplifies social and cultural lives of the three main resident communities - the Lepchas, Bhutias and the Nepalis. The "Thokro-Dum" is the primary outfit for the male members of the Lepcha community. The traditional attire of Lepcha women is a saree-like garment known as "Dumvum". The traditional dress donned by Bhutias is the "Bakhu" which is worn by both men and women. Nepali males love to wear "Shurval", which is a Pyjama with a shirt a traditional shirt.

Bakhu, also called Kho is a cloak-like outfit that bears resemblance to the Tibetan Chuba but stands out for being sleeveless. This versatile attire is worn by both men and women. It is fastened at the neck and cinched at the waist with a belt made of silk or cotton. While traditionally paired with a full-length garment, modern adaptations often include pairing the Bakhu with jeans, giving it a chic contemporary touch. Women also enhance the look with shawls, popularly called Majetro, and stylish blouses like Chaubandi Cholo and Tharo Cholo. 

Thokro-Dum, the primary traditional attire of the Lepcha community is mostly worn by men. This ensemble comprises a white calf-length pyjama, reminiscent of a karate outfit, teamed with a Lepcha shirt called Yenthatse and an embroidered cap known as Shambo. A distinctive multi-coloured handwoven cloth called Dumpra is pinned at one shoulder and secured by a waistband. The rough texture of this attire reflects its functional purpose, ideal for working in fields. Traditional cone-shaped hats made from bamboo, rattan, and straw, such as Thyaktuk are still worn during festive and ceremonial occasions. Historically, a velvet version called Anok Thakytuk served as the headgear for royal soldiers during the Chogyal dynasty, and it continues to hold cultural importance during weddings and rituals. 

The sari-like garment called Dumvum or Dumyam, worn by Lepcha women, drapes gracefully to the ankles. It is paired with a loose blouse known as Tago, and accessorized with a belt (Nyamrek) and a cap (Taro). A scarf called Gorey is often used to cover the head, adding modesty and elegance to the attire. Interestingly, the costumes of Lepcha men and women differ not just in style but also in symbolism. The rugged texture of men’s attire mirrors their life of hard work, while the flowing Dumvum of women represents grace and comfort. 

The Nepali community in Sikkim also has distinctive traditional attire. Men typically wear Daura Suruwal, comprising a long double-breasted tunic called Daura paired with tight-fitting trousers known as Suruwal or Shurval. This outfit is often complemented by a waistcoat (Askot) and a belt (Patuki), along with a symbolic Khukri, a traditional curved knife carried in a leather case called Daab. 

For Nepali women, the Pharia is the quintessential traditional garment, offered in vibrant colors and exquisite designs. It is accompanied by the Chaubandi Cholo, a long blouse fastened on all four sides, and an elegant wrap called Hembari that drapes over the upper body. A Majetro shawl often adds warmth and style. During cultural performances, women also adorn a decorative cloth from head to waist called Pachauri, enhancing the visual appeal of their dance movements.

Traditional Dresses of Tripura

A beautifully woven two-piece called "Rignai" and "Risa" worn by the women of Tripura form a significant part of the traditional dresses of Tripura. Rignai is a beautifully woven cloth, wrapped around the waist like a skirt. Known for its vivid colour combinations, often red, black, and green, it is an everyday essential and a ceremonial favorite during festivals like Garia Puja and weddings.

Risa complements the Rignai, serving as a versatile upper garment, shawl, or headgear. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the Risa carries cultural significance and plays an important role in rites of passage and festive occasions. Both garments are primarily crafted from eco-friendly cotton and occasionally adorned with silk for special events, showcasing the artistry of Tripuri weavers. 

For Tripuri men, the Rikutu Gamcha is a staple of traditional dressing. Lightweight and breathable, this multipurpose cotton cloth offers comfort in the region’s tropical climate. Featuring simple yet graceful patterns, the Rikutu is worn casually or during cultural events, symbolizing both modesty and tradition. 

Kamchwlwi Borok is one of the most versatile garments in Tripura’s cultural wardrobe. This classic wrap-around attire, worn by both men and women, is crafted from handwoven cotton with minimalistic designs that radiate elegance. Its adaptability makes it a favorite for religious ceremonies and festive occasions, standing as a symbol of unity among Tripuri tribes. 

The Pachra, another significant garment for Tripuri women, is a wrap-around cloth featuring intricate handwoven patterns and natural dyes. Ideal for both daily wear and festive occasions, it reflects the artistic excellence of the community. The Pachra’s geometric motifs narrate cultural stories, making it more than just clothing, a living piece of heritage. 

The Leepa is a simple draped garment for men, resembling a sarong and often seen during festivals and daily routines. Its minimal design highlights the understated elegance of Tripuri attire. Similarly, the Rabung is a cotton wrap-around with striped or checked patterns, remains a traditional favorite for ceremonial as well as casual wear. Both garments symbolize practicality fused with cultural pride. 

During grand celebrations, nothing matches the vibrancy of the Puanchei. This stunning skirt, richly embroidered with bold hues such as red, green, and gold, is an essential piece for dances and weddings. Its elaborate patterns and bright colors make it a symbol of joy and festivity in Tripura. 

The Chador, an elegant draped cloth, serves as both an everyday accessory and a ceremonial garment for women. Often adorned with embroidery or bold patterns, it is as functional as it is stylish. The Borok Ethnic Wrap, on the other hand, is a unisex garment featuring symbolic motifs and vivid colours. Traditionally worn during cultural gatherings and festivals, it reflects Tripura’s shared heritage and artistic brilliance.