Embroidery of Manipur has a distinct quality and a style of creation. The local people of Manipur are engaged in intricate embroidery work which displays the typical style and trend of Manipur.
Embroidery of Manipur demonstrates a wide variety. Some of the embroidered items are made for warriors, which the king presents the warrior as a mark of distinction. The artisans of Manipur create war cloths which is a special type of shawl called Lamphie. These are created by the women of Manipur and the warriors use them while stepping out for war. A type of waist coat, which is popular by the name of Ningthouphee among the local people, is presented by the king to the warriors of the country. The artisans of this area use a unique type of embroidery that uses one stitch. This embroidery employs dark matching shade with untwisted silk thread on the border of the `phanek` which is a lungi or lower body wrap worn by the local women of Manipur. The fabrics are embroidered with dark red, plum or chocolate colour threads are usually seen in the local market. The motifs of butterfly, elephant, cockerel etc are used to bedeck the `phanek` items. The most commonly used embroidery is "Akyobi" design that employs elegant motifs of red with a bit of black and white shade. This embroidery of Manipur is done in an elegant snake-like pattern. This particular design is said to be derived from the legendary snake, pakhamba, which was killed by the husband of a goddess. This design has a circular shape and one circle is joined to the other. Each circle is further broken up into patterns with significant motif and special name. The designs of bee and petals of lotus are created on the base materials. The designs are termed as `moil`, `khoi mayek`, `tendwa` etc.
One of the embroidered pieces of cloth, called Hijai mayek worn by widows and elderly women and at funerals, are made by the artisans of Manipur. This is embroidered in black and white with patterns of running lines and circular movements including motifs of battle scenes, swords etc. The artisans of Manipur create some embroidered items that are well admired by the local people. These embroidered items include Saijounba which is a long coat that is prepared with special embroideries for the very trusted courtiers of the king, Phirananba which are delicately embroidered small flags, Zamphie which is a war cloth worn by warriors, Ningthoupee the king`s cloth, Kumil or ras shirt etc. The artisans involved in the embroidery work of Manipur employ designs like Namthang-khut-hut, Khamenchatpa etc with satin stitch and the Romanian stitch.
The excellent embroidery work of Manipur display Angami Naga shawls that are embellished with animal motifs in black. Previously, this shawl was termed as `sami lami phee` (which means warrior cloth of wild animals). This cloth was presented to the brave distinguished warriors by the monarchs for showing appreciation of their prowess and ability. The artisans use bright colours like bright green, red, yellow, and white to create designs on the shawls. Apart from creating different items using different designs, the local inhabitants of Manipur has mastered Abhala or mirror-embroidery work which they use for creating costumes for rasa dance. The meithei community of Manipur is excelled in the tindogbi design which has received inspiration from a silk caterpillar sitting on a castor leaf and eating it. The local people are also adept in the art of creating Shamilami fabric, a combination of weaving and embroidery work. The artisans of this state create different items decorated with Maibung design that stands unique in its appearance and usage of outstanding coloured yarns.
Embroidery of Manipur has an indigenous style to exhibit in the creations of the artisans. The items that are created with much effort of the artisans are much coveted in the local market of Manipur.
