Kontha or kantha is a saskrit woed means `rags`. It can rightly be called the recycling art. The precious cloths when became worn-out, women instead of throwing them away, piled them in layers and stitched. Another legend relates kantha origin to lord Buddha and his disciples. It is said that they used to cover themselves with the thrown away rags patched and stitched together.
Actually the stitch is simple running stitch. It is the way it has been used that makes it extra ordinary. The cloth was given layers that were kept together by the stitches. The cloth had multiple uses. It could be used to sleep on or as a light blanket. Kantha for the Bengali folk means embroidered quilt. Kantha is said to be dorukha meaning turning the worn out and old textiles and fabrics to things of beauty.There are varieties in Kantha to serve different purposes. The thick lep is a warm winter cover, the casfin, large and rectangular, for ceremonial purposes. The baytom, for wrapping up book, valuables etc., has squares with wide borders of rows of figures, human and animals with a lotus in the centre and floral patterns in the corners or when used as pillow cover, it has longitudinal border palters.
Procedure of making Kantha Embroidery
Though the stitch used is variations of running stitch, the motifs can range from being simple to very intricate. It is a typical example of how a simple stitch can create elaborate motifs. Usually the motifs are gods and goddesses, flowers, animals or geometric patterns that means it can be anything the worker can relate to. There are different types of kanthas based on its use.
The Kantha embroidery of West Bengal has for its base discarded sarees piled on top of one another and quilted. The thread for the stitches is drawn from the old saree borders. The design is first traced, then covered over with running stitches. Kantha, has limitless designs, for every woman who works on it can make almost any innovations that she fancies. But some basic traditional designs usually figure in the work. Another style of Kantha has a border with a repeat design done in darning stitch giving it almost a weave. A good bit of Kantha is done in white thread on a white background.
1) Archilata kantha --small, covers for mirrors or toilet accessories with wide, colorful borders
2) Baiton kantha --square wraps used for covering books and other valuables. They have elaborate borders
3) Durjani/thalia -- quilted wallets made out of rectangular kantha pieces
4) Lep kantha --are rectangular wraps heavily padded to make warm quilts. The whole piece is stitched in a wavy pattern. Simple embroidery is done on the finished quilt.
5) Oaar kantha --pillow covers in simple designs. A decorative border is sewn afterwards.
6) Sujani kantha -- decorative quilted kantha used as blankets or spreads during religious rituals or other occasions. This started in 18th century in Bihar.
7) Rumal kantha are used as absorbent wipes or plate coverings. They also feature a central lotus with ornamented borders.
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