Noted for its ancient costumes, unique make up and grand headgears, Kathakali is perhaps the only dance form in India in which the masculine aspect of the dance is preserved in its elemental vigour. The costume and make up of Kathakali are intricate, elaborate and colourful. The costume and make-up transform the actor mentally and physically to portray a particular character. The makeup is very elaborate and the costumes heavy. They are the most distinctive characteristic of Kathakali.
The costumes and make up of Kathakali vary with the characters. For instance the Saatvika characters or the hero don different attires and make ups when compared to the evil characters or Katti. They are also known as the Rajasic characters. Besides these characters, such as, Brahmins, righteous women, sages, etc don the Minukku make up. Another form of make up is the Taadi that is further divided into Velupu Taadi, Chuvappu Taadi and Karuppu Taadi.
These basic divisions are further subdivided in a way, which is very well known to Malayalam (Keralite) audiences. Each character is instantly recognisable by their characteristic makeup and costume. The costume and ornamentation are elaborate and designed to heighten the superman effect. The large overcoats, the flowing scarves, the bulging skirts, the antique ornaments, the strikingly opulent head dresses with streaming hair flowing down to the waist and covering the back - all create enlarged figures well befitting the sculptured facial features and produce tremendously impressive impersonations.
The makeup is so elaborate that it is more like a mask than makeup in the usual sense. They all have set modes of make-up and attire and adornment and are reduced to five main types, according to their real character or qualities. These types are usually known by the predominant colour applied to the face or its pattern. The materials that comprise the makeup are all locally available. The white is made from rice flour; the red is made from vermilion (a red earth such as cinnabar). The black is made from soot. The colours are not merely decoration, but are also a means of portraying characters. For instance, red on the feet is used to symbolize evil character and evil intent. The dancers wear large headdresses, and the contours of the face are extended with moulded lime.
Another important aspect of the Kathakali make up is the colours used to paint the faces. Primarily green, yellow, black, red and others are used to paint the visages of the performers. Herein too the uses of colours vary with the characters. Pachcha (green) face denotes the godly or virtuous character. Another indispensable part of make up in Kathakali is the beard or Taadi. While Chuvappu Taadi (red beard) depicts aggressive and demoniac characters; Karuppu Taadi (black beard) depicts aborigines, cavemen and foresters; and Velupu Taadi (white beard) represents Rishis, Saints, Preceptors and other intellectuals. Besides these there is the Kari (black) make up that is used to portray evil female characters. The faces of these characters are painted with black and a red crescent is made on cheeks. A pair of Damshtraas (teeth) sets them apart from other women characters.
Such elaborate make up in Kathakali requires about three hours. With such effective, elaborate, dramatic make up and vibrant costumes, it is a visual treat to watch the Kathakali dancers perform on stage.
