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Costumes and Make Up in Kathakali

Dance costume for SathwikaNoted for its ancient costumes, weird make up and grand headgears, Kathakali is perhaps the only dance form in India in which the masculine aspect of the dance is preserved in its elemental vigor. Kathakali costuming is intricate, elaborate and colourful and it takes 2 to 3 hours for the make up. The costume and make-up transform the actor mentally and physically to portray the character. The makeup is very elaborate and the costumes are very large and heavy. They are the most distinctive characteristic of Kathakali. There are several kinds of costume. There are:
1. Sathwika (the hero)
2. Kathi (the villain)
3. Minukku (females)
4. Thatti

Minukku Dance CostumeThese basic divisions are further subdivided in a way, which is very well known to Malayali (Keralite) audiences. Each character is instantly recognizable by their characteristic makeup and costume. The costume and ornamentation are elaborate and designed to heighten the superman effect. The large overcoats, the flowing scarves, the bulging skirts, the antique ornaments, the strikingly opulent head dresses with streaming hair flowing down to the waist and covering the back - all create enlarged figures well befitting the sculptured facial features and produce tremendously impressive impersonations.

The makeup is so elaborate that it is more like a mask than makeup in the usual sense. They all have set modes of make-up and attire and adornment and are reduced to five main types, according to their real character or qualities. These types are usually known by the predominant colour applied to the face or its pattern. The materials that comprise the makeup are all locally available. The white is made from rice flour; the red is made from Vermilion (a red earth such as cinnabar). The black is made from soot. The colours are not merely decoration, but are also a means of portraying characters. For instance, red on the feet is used to symbolize evil character and evil intent. The dancers wear large headdresses, and the contours of the face are extended with moulded lime.
Kathakali Dance Make-upThere are four types of make up, viz:
1. Pachcha (green) face painted green and adorning sober and beautiful attires denoting the godly or virtuous character.
2. Thadi (beard); divided into Chuvanna Thadi (red beard) depicting aggressive and demoniac characters, Karutha Thadi (black beard) depicting aborigines, cavemen and foresters and
3. Vella Thadi (white beard) representing Rishis, Saints, Preceptors and other intellectuals.
4. Kari (carbon black) representing mean characters and Minukku (refined) presenting women and Brahmins.

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