Introduction

Karbis, the major tribal ethnic group of the Karbi Anglong district of Assam have their own traditional attire. The clothes they wear are homemade from the locally grown cotton or the Eri silk. In Karbi Anglong, it has been observed that the demand for traditional attire is still very high as it is being preferred by the old and the young alike. So Karbi women weavers continue producing the traditional clothes, keeping alive the colours and designs of ancient time and at the same time modernizing them. One notable aspect of traditional dress of Karbi Tribe is the varied designs and colours of the clothes, each meant for particular age, sex and social status of the people wearing them. The Karbi costumes are more or less similar to those of the Khasis of Meghalaya.

Traditional Dresses for Men of Karbi Tribe

The traditional attire of men includes Choi, Poho, Rikong, and Sator, each garment representing cultural heritage and forming an essential part of their customary dress.

Some of the traditional dresses of the Karbi men are as follows:

Choi: Choi is a kind of warm jacket. There are different types of Choi specific to the age of men. Choi hongthor a ki-ik, choi hongthor ake-lok are meant for young men while choi ang, choi miri are for middle aged and aged men.

Rikong: In the remote area, married and aged men of Karbi tribe wear a cloth known as “Rikong” while doing their daily chores. It is a loin cloth available in different types like Rikong jongjong with colourful designs and simple white rikong bamon.

Poho: The use of turban called “Poho” is fast disappearing. Poho is a piece of colourful silk cloth which Karbi men use for making turban and covering their forehead. It is also used as a muffler. Poho comes in various types such as simple long white poho, poho ke-er, and poho kelok.

Sator: Men also wear a dhoti like cloth of symmetrical designs and animal prints known as “Sator”. It is a piece of white cloth secured around the waist and cover the full length of the leg. Sator is often worn with long pe seleng with vibrant designs and borders.

Traditional Dresses for Women of Karbi Tribe

The traditional attire of women comprises Pini, Pekok, Vamkok, and Jiso, each garment reflecting cultural identity and heritage while contributing to a distinctive and graceful ensemble.

Some of the traditional dresses of the Karbi women are as follows:

Pini: Pini is a black skirt worn around the waist and secured with a belt, featuring a variety of traditional designs such as jangre, santok, honki ranchom, marbong homkri, ahi cherop, chamburukso apini, and mekserek, each reflecting distinct cultural patterns and craftsmanship. 

Pinicamflak: The Karbi females use "Pinicamflak" as lower garment and "Pekok" as upper garment. The lower garment is a Karbi version of Assamese Mekhla but little shorter in length. 

Pekok: Pekok is a square piece of cloth used to cover the upper body and is tied at the right shoulder, available in a range of colours and traditional designs such as pe sleng, pe duphirso, pe khonjari, pe luru, pe jangphong, and pe sarpi. Pe Sarpi is mostly worn by elder women while pe sleng and pe jangphong is worn by middle-aged women. Younger women prefer to wear pe duphirso. 

Wamkok: They also use a highly artistic waistband, also called “Vamkok.” It is mainly used to tie the pinni to the waist and is available in different colours with fringes at both ends. Different types of Wamkok are amekpi, amekso, abermung, thoithesuri angphar, suve arvo and phonglong angsu.

Dokherso: In winter, they use coloured and striped scarf known as “Dokherso.” This scarf is also worn during the performances of “Chomangkan” (death ceremony). It is their ritual for showing respect to their elders and also the dead ancestors. 

Jiso: It is a long black cloth adorned with intricate designs and decorative fringes at one end, traditionally worn to cover the breasts.

Piba: Karbi women use “Piba”, a long cloth to carry their new born babies on the back. 

Jewellery of Karbi Tribe

In matters of ornamentation, Karbi society follows specific cultural norms. Karbi women are generally not permitted to wear gold ornaments, which are traditionally reserved for men. As women tend to wear a greater number of ornaments, silver is extensively used in their adornment.

Some of the traditional jewelleries of Karbi tribe are:

Lek: A distinctive ornament worn by Karbi women around the neck is the Lek, typically crafted in silver. These Leks are often made using coins and colourful beads and are locally known by names such as Ser Alek Pongting, Lek Pengkhara, Lek Bonghom, Lek Waikom, and Lek Jingjiri. Men also wear Leks, though theirs are made of gold and are traditionally referred to as Lek Ruve, Lek Sobai, and Lek Manduli.

Roi: Karbi women also wear bracelets known as Roi, with several varieties in use, including Roi Pengkhara, Roi Ke-er, and Roi Kelok, among others.

No Thengpi: The ornaments worn by women to adorn their ears are known as No Thengpi. These come in various types, including Thengpi Angrongkatengbai, Angrong Kangchim, and others, each reflecting traditional craftsmanship and cultural identity.

Norik: Men of the tribe also wear ear ornaments known as Norik, which are traditionally crafted from gold or silver.

Arnan: The rings worn by the Karbi community are known as Arnan. Common varieties include Arnan Ke-et, Arnan Kelop, Rup Bonda, Ser Bonda, and Vokapardon Arnan, which are frequently worn on the fingers. Karbi priests, however, traditionally wear Arnans made exclusively of copper.

Nothengpi: Nothengpi refers to distinctive ear adornments, with elderly Karbi women traditionally stretching their earlobes to accommodate bamboo tubes. This style was fashionable in earlier times and featured ornaments such as Kadengchinro.

The timeless traditions of Karbi dresses and jewellery stand as cherished expressions of cultural identity. Even where modernization is forcing a change, the preservation of these cultural forms remains essential. These exquisite creations distinctly define the Karbi tribe, safeguarding their unique cultural heritage for future generations.