![]() History of Chikan Embroidery Chikan embroidery, the superior embroidery work of Uttar Pradesh was originated in Lucknow. There are two stories famous among the local people of this state about the origination of this particular embroidery work. It is believed that while passing through a village of Uttar Pradesh, a traveller in a hot season asked for water from Ustad Mammad Shain Khan, a farmer staying near Lucknow. Looking at his condition and the weather, the farmer said the traveller to stay in his home. Pleased with the hospitality of the farmer, the traveller promised to teach him this exclusive art. The farmer learnt ample artistic dexterity from the traveller in Chikankari art. The local people of this state believe that the traveller was sent by God. According to the second story, the Princess of Murshidabad, married to the Nawab of Oudh, embroidered a cap for him worked with cotton thread on white muslin and presented it to him. Being jealous of her creation, the other members of her court started to compete with her and endeavoured to master this stitch. It is also believed that being influenced by Turkish embroidery, Noor Jahan may have introduced the art and since then the art had been practiced by the artisans of Uttar Pradesh and other states. According to the study of the source of Chikan work, this form of art had been introduced to India from Persia with Noor Jahan, the queen of the Mughal Emperor Jahangir. According to some intellectuals, this art form was migrated from Bengal. But the history says that Chikankari came to Oudh at the time of declination of Mughal power in Bengal. Then the artisans moved to the Oudh durbars for employment and patronage. Designs of Chikan Embroidery ![]() Types of Stitches in Chikan Embroidery The embroidery of Uttar Pradesh involves at least 40 stitches of which about 30 are still practiced while creating excellent Chikan embroidery work. The stitches are of three types like flat stitches, raised and embossed stitches, and the open trellis-like 'jaali' work. Some of the stitches that are used in Chikankari work include Taipchi, Pechni, Pashni, Bakhia. This Bakhia is of two types like Ulta Bakhia and Sidhi Bakhia. The floats of thread lie on the surface of the fabric and is used to fill the forms. Another is the Khatao, khatava or katava which is a cutwork or appliqué and a distinct type of technique, used in the embroidery work of Uttar Pradesh. Inclusive of all stitches, some other stitches like Gitti, Jangira, Murri, Phanda, Jaalis etc., are included to this embroidery work. The artisans follow some steps to give the Chikan embroidery a unique form and style. On the primary level, the fabric is cut by the tailor into the required garment shape. Then the basic pre-embroidery stitching is done so that the correct shape is available to the block-printer to plan the placement of the design. The design is printed on the semi-stitched garment with fugitive colours, and the embroidery of the garment is then begun. Then the garments of pieces of clothes on which Chikan embroidery is done are washed properly. The washing is done in a bhatti, after which the garment is starched and ironed. The entire matter takes one to six months to make a complete item after which the embroidered pieces are sold to market for selling. The embroidery of Uttar Pradesh has attained a distinct position in the world market due to the fine and intricate workmanship of the artisans. A predominant art form of Uttar Pradesh, Chikan work has its centres at Bhopal and Kolkata besides Allahabad, Varanasi and Lucknow. |
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