Assam, the land of abundance and fruition, is addressed, as the eldest of the seven sisters, i.e. the seven states, cumulatively forming, North-East India. The Muga or the golden silk fiber of Assam constitutes the lion`s share of the costumes of Assam. It is the outstandingly rich texture of Muga , which gifts Assam silk saris, their breathtaking beauty. The hallmark of the durable Muga silk is that it lasts for years and adds radiance to itself, after every wash. It is interesting watching the silk-cultivation in Assam. One can watch the silkworm in its cocoon stage, till the unfolding into worm`s generated silk-thread, and finally the conversion of the threads into the gorgeous saris at the handloom.

Almost 28000 families are engaged in silk-rearing in Assam. The exquisite designs, finely woven, on the saris cater to patterns in nature, for example the flora and the fauna . Embroideries also incorporate, acquainted and culture-related things, such as architecture and stone-sculptures on the Madan Kamdev Temple in Assam. Now-a-days, Mugha artisans , indulge in experimentation. They offer contrast creations of pinkish red, or greenish blue, and other innovative as well as traditional colors of red, blue, yellow, green, against the inherent golden color of the fabric.

Bridal wears are decked with gold and silver threads, to make the bride catch a marvelous get-up on her special occasion.

The Assam silk saris are perfectly suitable for parties, wedding ceremonies and mirthful festivals. It endows on any woman, who wears it, an aura of elegance. This high quality textile of Assam, Mugha silk, serves as the material-base, even for the traditional costume of Assam, called Mekhla Chadar. The Mekhla is an awesome ensemble, which resembles a sari, and is yet not a sari. The distinction lies in the fact that a Mekhla is composed of two or three pieces of cloth, whereas a sari is a single piece of cloth. One half of the Mekhla is worn as the skirt or petticoat or Lungi , while the other half, Chaddar, is akin to the sari`s Anchal, used as the upper-garment for the skirt. Added to the Chaddar, blouses are worn, below Chadar, to complete the dress. The Mekhla skirt, bears a broad border and is thicker in texture , but the Anchal is light-weight for easier handling.

A Mekhla is hence a mix and match of Aanchal and Lungi. However, the Chadar, is adorned with spell-bound weavings, integral to the weaving-ace Assamese. The Chadar is worn in a special criss-cross pleated-form, down the front side. Assamese women look marvelous in these fascinating costumes of Assam.

Tribes reside amidst the lush greenery of Assam. The Bodo tribal womenfolk acknowledge Mekhla as their prevalent costume. Along with the Chaddar, an upper-wrap called Riha. In fact, this happens to be the usual costume of the rustic people of Assam. The men of the Bodo tribe , dresses themselves in Dhoti (an Indian loin cloth) and Chaddar , made from Endi (a material made from conglomeration of silk and cotton). Very similar to the costume of the Bodo tribe, is the dressing style of another, tribal community, the Mech tribe, silk-weavers in profession.

The Dimasa tribes are renowned for their expertise in silk- culture and weaving-prowess . They are indeed the producers of Endi.

A Dimasa woman covers herself in a skirt-like attire, known as the as Rigu, topped by an embellished vest-like cloth, called Rijamphai . Ceremonies and merry occasions, see the women, decorating themselves in more ornate Rijamphai , locally named as Rikhaosa . Again, like the Bodo men, a Dimasa men, wears, a Risha, which is a loin cloth of deep green color. He puts in a vest, called Rimsao . He also attaches on his head, a turban woven from pure cotton or Endi.

The costume of the Thai Phake tribe stands illuminated with respect to its attractive charm. A Thai Phake woman uses a striped girdle, called Chin which stretches from the waist down to the ankles. There exists a cloth belt encircling her waist. It is called Chairchin. It has a width of about 6 cm and a length of 1.5 m. Furthermore, a long stripped cloth called Fa nangwait, envelops her upper body. It is , probably 2.3 m long and 1 m broad . Young girls resort same upper-cloth structure, with the only difference being in size. It is called Fafek. The Thai Phake women are inclined towards beautification of themselves. They enhance their prettiness , by wearing multicolored blouse, called Chekhamchum. While attending invitation or paying visit to far-flung places, they flaunt themselves in dignified white shawl-like cloth called Chaddar. At times of wedding, this Chaddar acts as the customary veil to the bride .

The costume of the Thai Phake man is somewhat same. He wears a chequered green loin cloth , invested with black stripes and red, yellow or white lining, called Fatong . Upwards,he matches his Fatong, with a shirt called Sho . He also bears a white turban called Fa ho ho. While venturing out , the Thai Phake men, adorns himself in a white shirt with long sleeves, enriched with a plain bordered white shawl called Fa fek mai, to make himself presentable at the place of his visit .

Jewellery is a fundamental aspect of costume of any place. The remarkable feature of Assamese jewellery is Khopo Phool, an earring which appears like an orchid. The outlook is like two small shoes paired together and crowned by a floral construct, which is again connected to a chain.

Gaam Kharu is a large-sized silver bangle with shimmering gold polish . Another popular earring is Lokaporo, wherein two gold or ruby or mina or enamel-plated ,bird figures are conjoined together, back to back. Fabulous is the Jethi Poti, a wide band of cloth , bestowed with a row of tiny medallions and a prominent pendant at the center. Every place thus emits an individual style, concept and rules , with regard to its dress-code, costume, accessories, etiquettes, and above all the social-scenario. And Assam, wealthy in artistic endeavor, particularly in the context of costume-designing and jewellery-making, is no different to this universal truth. In fact Assamese costume has cast an enthralling spell on not only India, but on foreign nations also, because of their mind-blowing perfection .