The costumes of West Bengal reflect the state’s cosmopolitan culture. In an Indian state that houses a multi-ethnic population, the range and variation in costumes is breathtaking. From the use of traditional fabrics, designs and motifs to the incorporation of western attires and styles within the Bengalis’ cultural domain, the apparels of West Bengal display fine works of artistry and sophistication.

For the men in West Bengal, the traditional garment is the “dhoti” and the “panjabi”. Dhotis are lengthy pieces of fabric spun in cotton or silk worn by the Hindus. Previously, dhotis were prevalent only in white though at present coloured dhotis are also in vogue. The dhoti is tied at the waist and wrapped around like a loin cloth passing in between the legs. It is suitably matched by a panjabi, worn atop, also made of silk or cotton. The panjabis are loosely fitted garments, reaching close to the knees and are available in a wide variety of colours. The “lungi” is another variation of the dhotis worn by men in West Bengal. It is also wound around the waist and is often plaid. Over the years, the traditional dhoti and panjabi have lost much of their appeal and the “pyajamas” are in vogue. While western attire has overtaken the dhoti’s popularity as regular wear, the combination of dhoti and panjabi is an irreplaceable ingredient during traditional festivals and occasions like the Durga Puja and wedding ceremonies. In the rural areas, though, the dhoti is worn by the men as regular attire.

The graceful icon of elegance that symbolises the quintessential Bengali woman is the saree. Indian sarees can be draped in various ways. In Bengal, a section the saree is wrapped around the waist and the remaining portion is swathed over the shoulder. In the olden days, women had to cover their heads with the ends of their saree or “pallu” as a mark of respect for the family elders. However, such conventions have subsided gradually with the passage of time. They are worn with immense poise and perfection especially during Social occasions and festivals. Sarees are worn over petticoats or long skirts tied at the waist with cords which help in keeping the saree tightly fastened about the waist. The exquisite beauty of a saree is further enhanced when it is accessorised aptly with a blouse. At present, blouses are available in multitudes of fashionable patterns which when teamed with a saree does wonders to the attire. The salwar kameez is nowadays equally popular among the Bengali women as the sarees. “Salwars” are loosely fitted trousers worn with a “kameez” or long tunic. During wedding ceremonies however, the Bengali women usually resort to the traditional Banarasi sarees in shades of red coupled with a golden veil to cover their heads. Ornamented with glittering stones and detailed threadwork, sarees are characteristic of the refined Bengali woman of today.

In West Bengal, sarees are primarily woven in cotton and silk. These sarees have been named primarily after their weaving techniques. The traditional weavers or “tantis” of West Bengal are reputed worldwide because of the quality of fabric spun and their intricate threadwork. In the various districts of West Bengal like Murshidabad, Malda, Nadia, Birbhum, Bankura and Hooghly, different varieties of sarees are woven with supreme efficiency and dedication. Bengal silk is famous for its refined quality and texture. Earlier, the cultivation of mulberry was common in almost every corner of Bengal. However, at present it is concentrated mostly in the districts of Birbhum, Murshidabad and Malda. The town of Baluchar located in Murshidabad is famed for the incredible threadwork on silk called “Baluchari”. The Baluchari sarees are noted for their elaborate designing in the pallu and borders with prominent motifs of a specific kind known as “kalka”. These motifs are woven with silver zari and often display Puranic tales. The kalka motif can be observed in the “Garad” and “Korial” sarees as well, which are variants of the Baluchari and are woven in silk. While the silk Baluchari sarees are renowned internationally, Baluchari weaves on the cotton sarees are no less unique. Jamdani sarees of West Bengal are extremely popular though different variations of Jamdani are also available across the border in Bangladesh. The term “Jamdani” primarily refers to a form of cotton called muslin or “mul mul”. Muslin has immense finesse and they are woven into different floral and geometric patterns on various forms of silk, like “tussar”. In West Bengal, the Jamdani sarees are available in a variety of colors and are favored by the modern Bengali woman because of its light texture. In the district of Nadia, the rural community of Shantipur is well-known for the superior quality of “Shantipuri Jamdani” sarees that display delicate threadwork. The districts of West Bengal are also home to the very prevalent “Tangail” sarees. It derives its name from the village of Tangail in Bangladesh where the traditional weavers resided. However, since the post-British era, most of the artisans are residents of Samudragarh, Fulia, Sainthia, Dainhat and Dhatrigram of West Bengal. The Tangail sarees are characterised by their use of diverse colour patterns which produce a novel effect called “meekari”. Some of the most prevalent motifs used in these sarees are lamp and lotus imageries. Another variation of the Jamdani saree is the “Dhaniakhali Jamdani”. It is available in brighter shades and is characterised by extended wide borders, often referred to as “maatha” or “beluaari paar”. This variant of Jamdani is affordably priced and hence used commonly by the women in West Bengal. It is interesting to note that the Dhaniakhali “aarong” gained popularity due to their utilization in dhotis for men.

Apart from these traditional handlooms, West Bengal is well-known for its delicate and fine threadwork known as “kantha”. The kantha stitch is a supreme work of art and requires utmost concentration and meticulousness. Initially, it referred to the needlework done on coloured patchwork coverlets put together from redundant apparels. These quilts were to serve as covers during the winter. However, now the kantha stitch has been incorporated for use on designing clothing garments like sarees and has gained immense popularity.

West Bengal is also home to plenty of tribes who display enormous variety with reference to their costumes. The men of the Magh tribe, for instance, cover their heads with a special form of headgear commonly referred to as “goungpoung” during the festive season. This is accompanied by the “prakha angyi” which is a fitted coat wrapped over the shirt. Body art or tattoos are quite popular among them as well as the Mahli tribesmen of West Bengal.

The costumes of West Bengal are suitably accessorized by exquisitely designed jewellery which is indigenous to its rich culture. The class of artisans involved in the art of making jewellery is known as “swankars” and they are eminent for their proficiency in mastering the complex art of jewellery designing. Silver and gold along with alloys of zinc and precious stones were mostly used for jewellery production. While traditional designs are still in vogue, recent trends dictate a preference towards lighter accessories. Conventionally, there are various different kinds of accessories that are inclusive of a Bengali woman’s trousseau. In weddings, mostly, women adorn their foreheads with a thin string of small gold chain often strewn with pearls and precious stones. This is the “tikli”. Gold chokers decorated with gems and diamonds are commonly worn by the women of West Bengal in social ceremonies. The women also embellish themselves with a variety of bangles and bracelets like the “mantasha” and also the “ratanchur” which can retrace its origin to the Mughal era. The tribal jewellery of West Bengal has also achieved immense popularity because of its exclusivity. A supreme example here would be the “dokra” artworks. Dokra jewellery is produced by means of a process called ‘cire perdue’, the most primitive mode of metal casting known.

Over the years, different civilizations have left their mark upon the culture of West Bengal which finds its manifestation in the varied costumes and accessories of the people of the State. With the progress of the passage of time, a shift towards western trends has been noticed. Yet, such cross-cultural influences have by no means demeaned the worth of the traditional garbs.