The Bishnoi tribe inhabits the area around Barmer and traces their ancestry to a saint and ascetic named Jambhaji, regarded by them as an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, whom they worship.
An interesting rationale for the name of Bishnoi is that the sect follows twenty-nine doctrines and `Bishnoi` in the local dialect translates to twenty-nine, like, Bis (twenty) + noi (nine) = Bisnoi. Their primary occupations are cultivation and animal husbandry. The Bishnois are strict vegetarians and also ardent protectors of trees and wildlife. Their environs are always the greenest and felling of trees and hunting are strictly prohibited. Ten tenets among the twenty nine are directed towards personal hygiene and maintaining good basic health, seven for healthy social behavior, and five tenets to worship God. Eight tenets have been prescribed to preserve bio-diversity and encourage good animal husbandry. The dogmas prohibit the usage of blue colour in clothes as the dye for coloring them is obtained by cutting a large quantity of shrubs.
The Bishnois are presently prevalent in the western parts of Rajasthan. Due to the eco friendly lifestyle, the Thar Desert has enabled the community to dwell in there more prosperously than the rest of the communities of that place. The people of this community are teetotalers and normally wear white shirt, dhoti and turban which also enable them to stave off from the hot dry desert climate. Only one crop of `bajra` is grown during the monsoon season by the tribal people.
The villages where the Bishnoi tribes reside are easily distinguishable because of the abundance of trees and other vegetation. The herds of antelopes roaming freely near their homes. The people do their agricultural works with simple ploughs using bullocks or camels keeping in mind the eco-system of the desert land. They rear sheep and goats, which devour desert vegetation. They have strong love for animals which prevent them from slaughtering them or selling any of animal products. According to their belief, animals are sacred and the protection of animals is part of the Bishnoi culture. An extremely aggressive race, they fight for wildlife and environment with a vengeance. The Bishnoi tribe has developed a unique blend of ecological sense and religious sensibility and strictly follows some customs that bar them from cutting trees and are also the advocates of peace and non-violence.
The costumes of the Bishnoi tribe display their tribal customs including their sense of mores. The `puthia`, `pada` or `pothdi` and `odhna` make up the entire ensemble of unmarried girls. The `puthia` is white with full sleeves and the piping on the `puthia` is red. The lower garment of the women is called a `pada`. It is made from a blend of cotton and wool or in pure wool. The fabric is woven in black and white checks and the skirt is generally referred to as a `dhabla`. Bishnoi `odhnis` display a variety of prints, like the `rati-chunri`, a red printed `chunri`, the `sundri pakodi` in cotton and the `ludi`, which is black. The `ludi` is a woollen shawl made from sheep wool and is often embroidered.
A married woman wears a `kanchli` with a `kurti`, a `dhabla` or `ghaghra` as her lower garment and an `odhna`. The neckline is generally decorated with a small frill and small bells are attached just below the tuki, drawing attention to the garment and to the decolletage. Sleeves are worn longer than in other communities and are tight at the hem. Often two to three pleats arc made at the hem of the sleeve and are trimmed with piping.
The dresses are made with great dexterity for marriage purpose. For the marriage ceremony a `kanchli` made of `mashru` is preferred. The wedding `lehanga` is generally pink or red. A red `chhint` fabric in cotton, with white circles and black borders called `jaleb chaap` is most commonly used for this `lehanga`. The border designs at the two ends are brought to the front to form a vertical design down the centre of the `ghaghra`. Sometimes, the `ghaghra` is given a permanent pleat-effect with the use of natural glue, called `morla`.
The Bishnoi women wear a great variety of `odhni`. Generally, during the marriage ceremony, the `pir ki chunri`, gifted by the bride`s mother, is worn. This is a draped garment, printed in `laung bhat`. A `kajli odhni` or `cha-pal chunri` are also used for the marriage ceremony. Another `odhni` is the `kangrechi odhni`, which has `bandhej` work on fine mulmul. The `damini`, an embroidered red `odhna` is also popular. The edging of an odhna is finished with double piping, generally blue and yellow.
Rickrack and gota are used for ornamentation on the body of the `odhna`. The `odhna` is draped so as to expose most of the `kanchli`. The older women commonly wear a `dhabla`, `lehanga`, `and petivali kanchli `and `apakodi ckunri`. Women use the `ludi` and `lunkar` as shawls. A widow`s dress is similar in styling but lacks ornamentation and the colours used among them are either plain black for older women and red and black for younger widows.
The Bishnoi man`s attire comprises the `chola`, the dhoti and the `pagadi`. The `chola` is worn as an upper garment and is usually made of white cotton. An interesting detail is its shirt collar, probably assimilated from Colonial India. It also has wide cuffs on its sleeves. A dhoti is worn as the lower garment and is made of white cotton fabric and is worn at ankle-length. The men of this tribal community prefer to wear headgears. The headgear of the Bishnoi men is known as the `potiya`. It is white and worn at all times. The fabric used is cotton and the men are fond of jewellery and wear `murki` in their ears.
The Bishnoi tribe is the non violent people who worship the animals as god and maintain a healthy ecological balance of nature. They are the sheer followers of their customs.
