The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, often known as HMI, was created to encourage trekking amongst mountaineering enthusiasts. This institute was established on November 4, 1954 with the sole intention to form mountaineering as an organised sport in India. Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru was the founder President of Himalayan Mountaineering Institute.
The first ascent of Mount Everest in 1953 by the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary kindled a keen interest in establishing mountaineering as a well respected interest for people in the region. With the momentum provided by the first prime minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru, Himalayan Mountaineering Institute was established in Darjeeling, at an elevation of approximately 2100m. Late Maj N.D. Jayal was the first Principal of the Institute and Tenzing Norgay became the first director of field training for Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. Since then, this institution regularly conducts adventure, basic and advanced mountaineering course. These are very comprehensive courses, highly subsidised to encourage mountaineering as a sport.
In 1954, the location of Himalayan Mountaineering Institute was at Roy Villa on Lebong Cart Road, later in 1957, it was shifted to present location on the western spur of Birch Hill (Jawahar Parbat). The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute happens to be the landmark in Darjeeling and an important center of tourist attraction as well. It commands a magnificent view of Kanchenjunga Mountain. The Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research was first requested to prepare a scheme for the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. Arnold Glatthard, the Principal of Swiss Mountaineering School, Rosenlaui, came to Darjeeling for this purpose and made the required recommendations.
The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, an autonomous body is governed by an Executive Council, which is headed by the Hon`ble Defence Minister as the President. The Hon`ble Chief Minister of the State of West Bengal is the Vice President of the Institute and the council has eminent mountaineers as its members. The representatives of Govt. of Nepal and Govt. of Bhutan are also members of the Council. The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute has three primary wings, namely Training Wing, Administrative Wing and Museum. The Training Wing is lead by the Vice Principal and it has one Deputy Director of Field Training, an Advisor of Field Training, and other instructional staff. The medical officer also forms a part of the training team. The Administrative Wing includes Administration, Equipment, Hostel, Record and Accounts. The Museum Wing has two museums, Mountaineering and Everest Museum. The trainees of various courses can also see films on mountaineering and related sports.
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute aims at promoting the science and art of mountaineering among its members, including honorary, associate and life members. Outsiders also may be enrolled as students by the Executive Council for the purpose, on a particular term or terms that the innovative members of the community may take a strong interest in the development of mountaineering activities in the Himalayan and Karakoram Range as a sport or as scientific quest.
The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute offers a basic mountaineering course of teaching the trainees both theoretical and practical mountaineering techniques, motivating them for higher endeavors, creating attitude among the trainees so that they may take up mountaineering as an art and not completely as a physical activity, infusing in them the outline, scientific subject dealing with all important prospects of the mountains and mountaineering. The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute also teaches the students how to make themselves comfortable and preserve their health in new environment, toughen up their bodies, thereby increasing their resistance to cold, hunger and fatigue and so on. The training institute also arranges for books and literatures so that the trainees can acquire suitable and relevant knowledge on mountaineering, its history, achievements and so on.
Every possible effort is taken at the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute to nurture all these necessary traits and qualities amongst the trainees. An aspiring mountaineer is shaped and moulded here by a tough Basic Course for 28 days, 20 of which are spent on the mountains at about 6097m elevation. The Base Camp which is 4 days trek and 85 km from Darjeeling, is situated at an altitude of 14,700 ft amidst lovely surroundings in Western Sikkim. The trainees climb up the neighboring peaks during field training. The basic courses in Himalayan Mountaineering Institute are organised 6 times a year, during March-April-May, September-October, October-November and November-December. However, the May course, is reserved for women only.
The advance mountaineering course of Himalayan Mountaineering Institute provides additional training and experience of climbing after gaining appropriate grades in the Basic Course and recommended for Advance Course. Beside advance techniques of climbing, the course also includes lessons and exercise in planning and organizing expeditions. The course is offered for 28 days. The students attend lectures on the academic aspects of mountaineering and bouldering on Tenzing and Gombu rocks. The trainees go for exercise in load carrying and trekking around Darjeeling to prepare themselves for the approach march to the Base Camp and explore beyond snowline.
The field training in Himalayan Mountaineering Institute includes training in snow and ice craft. It also encompasses use of latest climbing equipment, advanced rock climbing, skills of crevasse crossing and mountain rescue and camp setting and climbing peaks. The course ends with an official graduation ceremony when the students are presented with their aptitude badges. The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute also offers an adventure course. The aim of the adventure course is to implant the spirit of adventure among the students and also among adults. It also provides an exciting experience of physical outdoor pursuits, such as rock climbing, canoeing, trekking and various events of leisure sports. The foreign candidates can also opt for this particular course.
The candidates of Himalayan Mountaineering Institute must be physically fit and mentally strong to go through the course. One month of regular exercise and jogging for one hour everyday is helpful to gain the potential. Regular walking practice to almost 10 - 12 km on uneven terrain with 15 kg is also helpful to make the body resistant of all odd situations. Exercises to strengthen calf, thigh, back and shoulder muscles should also be done by the candidates regularly. There is a Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Store that provides mountaineering equipment and clothing to the individuals who would attend the various courses at this institute. The Jayal Memorial Fund Store was started in the memory of its first principal Major Nandu Jayal; it supplies equipments to various Indian expeditions. The institute has a hostel which accommodates trainees.
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute has two museums. The main museum has a physical model of the Himalaya, colored in various shades, showing the principal peaks. It has a collection of flags and pennants planted on peaks climbed by Indian Expeditions, attires of hill folks in the Himalaya, list of high altitude birds, fishes and butterflies and charts photographs showing the heights of peaks. The pictures of famous mountaineers with their mountaineering background and pictures of mountaineering tenures are exhibited in this museum. The second museum is called the Everest Museum. The Indian Mountaineering Foundation contributed a number of exhibits and photographs for setting up the museum. The pictures narrate a sequential history of attempts on the mountain, starting from 1852, when peak XV on the survey of the Indian maps, was found by Radha Nath Sirdar to be the highest summit on the earth. The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute features a well stocked library, which has more than 2500 books covering a wide range of subjects, principally mountaineering, as also on travel and exploration, geology, astronomy, flora, fauna and so on.
One can attain a spectacular view of the Kanchenjunga from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute of Darjeeling. One of the major interests of the visitors in the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling is the Veb Carl Zeiss Jena telescope that can be used to observe the planetary movements. The institute remains open from 9 am to 5 pm the evening. Reaching Himalayan Mountaineering Institute is possible from any mediums of transport. The Nearest Airport is Bagdogra, which is located approximately 87 km, from Darjeeling. Regular bus and taxi services are available from Bagdogra, New Jalpaiguri and Siliguri. The travel time by road is 3-4 hours. The nearest railhead is New Jalpaiguri, which is about 90 km from Darjeeling. All trains going towards Guwahati pass through New Jalpaiguri. The Institute is approximately 2 km from Darjeeling town bus stand. The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute is a must see for the tourists of all age groups.
