The costumes of Jammu and Kashmir are emblems of the cultural richness of the landscape. Historical sources reveal that, since antiquity, the Aryan descendents who inhabited the terrain interacted with various prosperous civilizations like the illustrious Greeks, the Romans and Persians. Such influences of its cultural ethos and tradition coupled with the climatic factors find a reflection in the attires of its people. Most of the garments are made of wool, silk with intricate embroideries and cotton.

In these mountainous regions, the traditional ‘pheran’ is the most popular form of dressing among both men and women. Hindu men usually wear churidars while the Muslim men are dressed in salwars beneath the formidable pherans. The pheran is a loosely fitted woollen garment which makes use of the ‘kangri’. An earthen vessel, the kangri is filled with flaming coal. Next, it is placed within a container made of natural fiber. The kangri is usually placed in the front, skillfully shrouded by the pheran. It functions as an internal heating system in order to keep the wearer warm during the extreme cold winters. The ‘pathani’ suit, also referred to as ‘Khan-dress’, is a popular garb among the men, especially in Srinagar. Turbans are common among Muslim men. Skull caps are extremely prevalent, especially among the peasants and the ‘karakuli’ or fur skull caps along with the Pashmina shawls worn by men often symbolize royal lineage. Pashmina belts and ‘kamarbands’ are common too. ‘Gurgabis’ are lace free shoes worn by the Muslim men of Jammu and Kashmir. Brocade, camel hair and cashmere are the main elements that are used in the making of coats and fleece for men.

The pheran is the prominent attire for Kashmiri women as well. Traditionally, there are the ‘poots’ and the pheran, comprising two robes placed atop the other. The pherans worn by the Muslim women are traditionally characterized by their broad sleeves and reach up to the knees. However, the Hindus of Jammu and Kashmir wear their pherans long, stretching up to their feet with narrowed down sleeves. Often, the pherans are wrapped tightly by a piece of creased cloth called ‘lhungi’. The Hindu women wear a headdress called the ‘taranga’, stitched to a suspended cap and it narrows down at the back, towards the heels. The taranga is an integral part of the wedding attire among Hindus.

Elaborate zari embroideries or floral patterns around the neck and the pockets are a prominent feature of a Muslim woman’s pheran. Brocade patterns adorn their long sleeves. The pheran is accompanied by red headgears known as the ‘kasaba’. The kasaba is stitched in the form of a turban and is pinned together by ornaments and silver brooches. A pin-scarf suspended from the kasaba descends towards the shoulder. It is worn by the Muslim women as a part of their regular attire. The ‘abaya’ is also commonly worn by them. For unmarried Muslim women, the costumes vary to some extent. The elaborate headgears are replaced by exquisitely ornate skull caps embellished with threads of gold, talismans and gems.

The intricate patterns of a woman’s costumes in Jammu and Kashmir are further enhanced by the use of various accessories. Earrings, anklets and bangles are widely used apart from the use of ornamentation in clothing. Silver jewellery is popular among the Muslim women and they adorn themselves with neckpieces, bracelets and heavily bejeweled chains. ‘Dejharoos’ or golden pendants are worn by the Hindu women. These dejharoos comprise two decorative gold pendants which are suspended through gold chains or silk threads. It is symbolic of a woman’s married status among the Kashmiri Pandits.

The Jammu and Kashmir landscape is dotted with various ethnic groups. The Dogras are tribes residing amidst the hilly topography of Jammu. The Dogra womenfolk are attired in fitted pajamas and tunics accessorized with a suitable headdress. Similar fitted pajamas and kurtas of considerable length constitute the garb of the Dogra men. The use of kamarbands and turban are prominent among the Dogra elders. The Gujjars, also residents of Jammu, are the second-largest group of ethnic tribes inhabiting in Kashmir. The members of this tribe are mostly shepherds. The Gujjar women are dressed in loose sleeved tunics coupled with baggy salwars. They cover their head by an elaborate headgear, akin to the ones worn by the women in Turkish villages.

The costumes of the inhabitants of the Ladakh region of Jammu and Kashmir deserve special mention because of their extraordinary variety. ‘Kuntops’ are woollen gowns worn by women. It is accompanied by a ‘bok’, a brightly decorated shawl that can aid in carrying packages and even children. The men wear ‘Goucha’, a woollen robe made of sheep skin fixed at the neck. It is wound at the waist by a bright sash called ‘Skerag’. It extends to about 2 metres in length and 20 cm in breadth. The Skerag serves as an enclosure for the Ladakhi men to carry their bare essentials. Men in Ladakh wear velvet multihued caps while the women adorn turquoise colored hats named ‘Perak’. According to tradition, upon a woman’s demise, the perak is handed down to her eldest child. In Ladakh, footwear made of Yak skin and wool is known as ‘Papu’.

Over the years, the people of Jammu and Kashmir have embraced western outfits and also those from other Indian cultures. This is noticed primarily among the men have appropriated the western attire to a great extent. The sari is more popular among the Hindu women after the 1930s Reform Movement. However, despite these influences, the traditional pheran continues to remain the symbol of the culture and couture of Jammu and Kashmir.