In Handicrafts of Mainpuri one also finds boxes and platters made of rich brown wood inlaid with brass wire in various geometrical patterns. It is known as tarkashi or wire work. Embroidery is done with metallic threads called kalabattu that forms the zari. The metal ingots are melted into metal bars and lengths are created by beating it. It is then pulled through perforated steel plates to transform it into a wire which is followed by the tarkashi process to make it thin with rubber and diamond dies. The last stage is badla where the wire is flattened and twisted with silk or cotton thread to make it a kalabattu.
Zari is used in weaving and specifically in embroidery. For intricate patterns stiff wire is used. Sitara is a small star-shaped metal piece that is used for floral designs that is called salma-sitara. The thicker kalabattu is a braided gold thread that is used for borders while the thinner one is used at the end of the drawstring of purses, in tassels, necklaces and strings. Tikora is a gold thread that is spirally twisted to create complicated designs. The dull zari thread is called kora and the shiny one is called chikna. The equipment is used for embroidery is a rectangular wooden-frame called karchob and a wooden leg called thapa that is used for sewing laces.
Zardozi is a heavy and more elaborate embroidery work which uses varieties of gold threads, spangles, beads, seed pearls, wire, and gota. Zardozi is used to decorate wedding outfits, heavy coats, cushions, curtains, canopies, animal trappings, bags, purses, belts, and shoes. This kind of embroidery is done on heavy silk, velvet and satin. The main centres of Zardozi work are in Delhi, Jaipur, Banaras, Agra, and Surat.
Kamdani is a lighter needlework which is done on lighter material like scarves, veils, and caps. Here ordinary thread is used and the wire is pressed down with the stitching producing a satin-stitch effect that is called hazara butti. Mina Work is done in gold and is called so owing to its resemblance with enamel work. Kataoki Bel is a border pattern that is made of stiff canvas and the whole surface is filled with sequin edging. Makaish is one of the oldest styles that are done with silver wire or badla. Tilla or Marori Work is the kind of embroidery where gold thread is stitched on to the surface with a needle. The woven gold border is cut into various shapes in order to create a variety of textures in the patterns that is known as Gota work. Kinari work is a small variation where the embellishments are done at the edges in the form of tassels.
