Home > Society > Costumes in India > Mochi Bharat
Mochi Bharat
Mochi Bharat, a type of embroidery in Rajasthan, is actually employed to adorn the leather objects.

Share this Article:

Mochi Bharat, Embroidery of RajasthanMochi Bharat or leather embroidery is a style of embroidery that is common to most parts of this region. Mochi Bharat was actually developed to ornament leather objects and is usually created on shoes, animal saddles and trappings. In addition, gold and silver zari is greatly employed on accessories like leather belts, bags and wallets.

Usually, soft leather is used in this type of Rajasthani embroidery as it is easy to work on. Lately, however, Mochi Bharat style of embroidery has also found its way into the decoration of textiles like cotton, silk and velvet. Rajasthani women are often seen in a ghaghra and choli ornamented with this style of embroidery. Mochi Bharat is employed through fine chain stitch. Simple line patterns of leaves and flowers are created in zari thread. In the villages, bolder patterns are preferred, where the entire surface is covered with brilliant colours and the design is highlighted through contrasts. The design is often cut out on paper and then pasted on to the surface to guide the embroidery. In other cases, motifs are block-printed on the material with fugitive dyes, before it is embroidered.

The artisan of Rajasthan uses the ari, an adaptation of the cobbler`s awl to implement the embroidery. The ari has a slash incised just above its point to form a hook that looks like a crochet needle. The hook pierces the material and loop embroidery of thread is drawn up. Repeated hooking and pulling of the thread forms a chain stitch, which is used for outlines and a backstitch is seen on the reverse. The motifs are filled up with satin and herringbone stitches. Couching process is also used in some portions of the fabric.

Sometimes, silk floss and cotton threads are employed for Mochi Bharat style. When done on a juti, the middle of the shoe upper is treated as a division for the pattern and a mirror image embroidered on either side. The adaptability of the chain stitch allows the artisan a free hand in the design. As a result exquisitely rendered examples of intricate motifs of birds like parrots and peacocks can be widely seen in this style of embroidery. There are two types of religious embroideries in Rajasthan, the pichvai and Jain embroidery, which are executed in Mochi Bharat style.

Pichvai style is pictorial and narrates a legend or an incident from the life of Lord Krishna. Richly coloured cotton, satin or velvet have been used for making these altar clothes. In keeping with the changing seasons, velvet and satin pichvai are used in winter, while cotton is hung in the summer months. Usually, silk or cotton threads in bright red, green, yellow and orange as well as darker shades are used for embroidering a red, purple, blue or white ground. The face of Srinathji, an incarnation of Lord Krishna, is always imprinted in blue with black shapes. In patchwork pichvai, green, yellow, black and white threads are embroidered on the bright red background, the whole work being offset with an outline of white cord. The designs worked on pichvai select and depict events from the Rasmandala, Krishnaleela and Gokulvana, all epics on the life of Krishna.

The embroideries of Mochi Bharat of Rajasthan also reflect the ideology of Jainism. Satin fabrics in red, indigo, blue or violet are used as a base and are embroidered with silk threads in colours of red, yellow, white, green and blue. It is not uncommon to find Mochi Bharat embroidery embellished with gold and silver metallic threads. The images in such embroider)` depict themes based on Jain philosophy, such as the mandala. The mandala is a representation of Jain beliefs and concepts, depicting the Lord Mahavira as the centre of the Universe, surrounded by the gods and goddesses in the heavens. Pali, Jaipur and Churu continue to be the finest centres of Jain embroidery.

The master weavers, dyers, printers and embroiderers of Rajasthan are the custodians of a supple yet fragile tradition. They have provided permanence in the history of textile design, creation and ornamentation of Rajasthan. Modernisation has made both beneficial and, at times, detrimental inroads into their craft. In order to sustain any craft and maintain its quality, it is important that the product be well marketed and economically feasible for the craftsmen. Financial incentives are important if the quality of the traditional crafts that is to be maintained. Above all, the craftsmen must be accorded their due recognition and respect for preserving these rare and precious crafts of Mochi bharat and keeping alive our rich and colourful heritage.


Share this Article:

Related Articles

More Articles in Costumes in India


Traditional Dresses of Jammu and Kashmir
The Traditional dresses of Jammu and Kashmir have historical significance to them and reflect the very rich cultural heritage of the state.
Traditional Dresses of Arunachal Pradesh
Traditional Dresses of Arunachal Pradesh reflect the ethnicity of the tribal population of the state. With 26 distinct tribes and over 100 sub-tribes, different tribes of this state wear different types of costumes.
Traditional Dresses of Assam
The traditional dress of Assam portrays the culture and essence of the state. People proudly follow the legacy left behind by their ancestors in the form of beautiful and exquisite pieces of traditional clothing worn during indigenous festivals and celebrations.
Traditional Dresses of Himachal Pradesh
Traditional Dresses of Himachal Pradesh are colourful and they vary from region to region, community to community, as well as from tribe to tribe.
Traditional Dresses of Madhya Pradesh
Traditional Dresses of Madhya Pradesh execute diversity in various aspects. Handicrafts and different textile techniques have given rise to a rich diversity of dresses of Madhya Pradesh.
Traditional Dresses of Meghalaya
The authentic and traditional dresses of Meghalaya reflect the cultural and social life of the tribal population of the state. The Khasi, Jaintias and Garos are the predominant tribes of Meghalaya region.
Traditional Dresses of Nagaland
Traditional Dresses of Nagaland mainly comprise shawls which are an extensively used item of the state. It is the most significant item used by the Naga people. The traditional dresses of Nagaland are worn mostly during the festivals.
Traditional Dresses of West Bengal
Traditional Dresses of West Bengal, with their exquisite design and traditional outlook, are appealing. The men’s and women’s wear have their own identity and characteristic features.
Traditional Dresses of Uttar Pradesh
Costumes of Uttar Pradesh are simple yet elegant. The people of Uttar Pradesh wear a variety of native and Western style dresses. They have separate category of costumes for daily wear and occasional wear as well.
Traditional Dresses of Manipur
Traditional Dresses of Manipur are simple and easy to wear. The patterns and designs on the costumes are very unique and colourful. Manipuris are setting new trends with their ancient and original attires.
Costumes of Punjab
Costumes of Punjab breathe vibrancy. Tradition marks the dress of the women:; colourful Salwar Kameez while Kurta-Pyjama or Lungi is worn by men.
Costumes of Bihar
Costumes of Bihar embody the rich cultural heritage of the state. Men don traditional outfits such as the Dhoti Mirjai, Kurta and Pajama, and Sherwani, while women grace themselves with elegant sarees and embellished lehengas.
Costumes of Jharkhand
Costumes of Jharkhand embody the simplicity and elegance of its inhabitants. From the one-piece Bhagwan worn by men to the sarees and Tussar silk sarees adorned by women, these costumes reflect the rich tribal heritage and cultural traditions of the region.
Costumes of Sikkim
Costumes and dresses of Sikkim reflect the youth and the zest that is integral to the people of this state. There are differences in clothing among the three communities of this state namely Lepchas, Bhutias and Nepalis.
Costumes of Tripura
The costumes of Tripura have their own traditional ethnicity. The traditional costumes of Tripura, such as Risa, Rignai, and Rikutu Gamcha, reflect the unique cultural heritage of the state. Skilled weavers create exquisite fabrics with intricate designs and motifs inspired by nature and tribal traditions.
Costumes of Uttarakhand
The costumes of Uttarakhand, a culturally diverse region in the Himalayas, showcase the rich heritage and traditions of its various communities. From the vibrant sarees and traditional jewelry of Garhwali and Kumaoni women to the colorful attires and unique accessories of tribal groups like Jaunsarees and Bhotias, the costumes of Uttarakhand reflect the cultural diversity, distinct identities of its people, and a trend which is suitable to the climate of the region.
Costumes of Andaman and Nicobar Island
The costumes of Andaman and Nicobar Islands showcase a fascinating blend of indigenous tribal traditions and influences from modern settlers. While the compulsion of wearing costume for decency has not yet touched the tribes of Andaman and Nicobar islands, modern clothing adopted by certain communities reflects the diverse cultural fabric of the islands
Costumes of Lakshadweep
Costumes of Lakshadweep are embellished with magnificent and vibrant colours that communicate love for life of the population of the region.
Costumes of Chandigarh
Costumes of Chandigarh uphold a pleasing medley of rich heritage complemented with stylish modernity. The costumes of Chandigarh also showcase the city`s diverse cultural heritage and the unique beauty of enthnicity.
Costumes of Dadra and Nagar Haveli
The essence of the costumes of Dadar and Nagar Haveli is ethnic.
Costumes of Delhi
Costumes of Delhi embody the rich cultural heritage of the city while showcasing a unique fusion of traditional elements and modern trends. From the popular salwar kameez and sarees for women to the timeless kurta pyjamas and sherwanis for men, Delhi`s costumes make a vibrant and stylish fashion statement, reflecting the cosmopolitan nature of the city.
Costumes of Odisha
Costumes of Odisha is reflects the unique culture of the state. Odisha has an ancient culture and popular for classical dance.