Gota work or Lappe ka kaam is a well known form of metal embroidery of western India, especially Rajasthan. The embroiderers of Jaipur, Bikaner, Ajmer, Udaipur and Kota are renowned for their uniquely styled gota work.
Gota work or Lappe ka kaam is also a form of fabric ornamentation that was perhaps developed in Rajasthan. It is also known as gota-kinari work and lappe-ka-kaam. On religious, social and festive occasions, men, women and children dress in their finest clothes that are often ornamented with Gota work or Lappe ka kaam. Gota lacing is extremely popular and odhni and turban edges of Rajasthan are often worked with it. Many printed or embroidered ghaghras are also trimmed with gota work.
Depending on its width, Gota work or Lappe ka kaam can be found under different names like chaumasiya and athmasiya. Essentially, gota is a band of gold or silver ribbon of that varies with width, woven in a satin weave. Badla or a metal yarn that is made of beaten gold or silver forms the weft and silk or cotton that is used in the warp. Gota work or Lappe ka kaam is worked on fabric with the appliqué technique. With a slight hemming or simple running stitch, stylish designs flow from the artisan`s fingers on to the garment. Admired design elements like flowers, leaves, stylized mango motifs and heart shapes are usually worked on various kinds of odhna and ghaghras. Checkerboard patterns are also quite a favourite in the region of Rajasthan. Animal figures, like the parrot, peacock and elephant are some of the popular motifs used in Gota work or Lappe ka kaam. As a variation, floral designs are cut from gota and embroidered on to the cloth itself. Some sections of the pattern are filled with coloured satin, thus resulting in a rich design that resembles the enameled jewellery of the region. Men and women of all communities wear garments of Gota work or Lappe ka kaam, as it is auspicious and indispensable during ceremonial occasions.
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