Paithani sarees derives its name from the village Paithan in Aurangabad district. Paithani saris worn by the women of Central India on special occasions. There is a glorious tradition which speaks as much for cultivated taste as for the weavers imagination and skill.
The art of fine weaving and the complex processes of bleaching and dyeing and the arts of hand and loom embroidery were perfected by the people of India long before conditions in the textile industry were modernized. These crafts were mostly hereditary and the qualities required of a true artisan were apprenticeship, devotion to duty and co-operation. The knowledge of the arts and crafts was imparted from one generation to the next.
The speciality of the paithani is its border and pallav. Earlier just 2-3 colours were popular which were integrated in the sari in the dhup chaon pattern which, when translated, means light and shade. The paithani sari is an entirely handwoven item. Depending on the intricacy of the design, it takes anything from one month to a year to weave. The traditional paithani used to be a plain sari with a heavy zari border and ornamental pallav. "But today paithanis with motifs are in vogue: stars, circles, peacocks, flowers and paisleys. The paithani borders and pallavs are heavily adorned with these motifs and the sari is given the name after the design on it. Tota-maina (parrot), bangdi-mor (peacock with round design), asavali (flower and vine), narli (coconut), are all descriptive of paithanis.
In the olden days the zari used in making paithanis was drawn from pure gold. But today silver is substituted for gold thus making the paithanis more affordable to many people.
The basic weave of the paithani sari is simple. It is a tabby weave but more recently even the modern jacquard has been incorporated. The speciality lies in the design which is woven without the assistance of a mechanical contriance like a jala. On a zari warp thread the weft is interlocked with different colours. Multiple spindles are used to produce the linear design. The border as well as the pallav carry creeper and floral motifs on a background of gold. The pallu is a fascinating piece of gold tissue having coloured rosettes, sometimes birds are woven. Such saris are worn by brides. Also produced at Paithan are silk borders composed of an elegant mixture of cotton and silk, with pretty floral and other designs ingeniously looped with gold and silver thread during weaving.
The paithani became very popular during the Maratha period. At that time the favourite motif was the asavali, a kind of flower and hence the saris were also known as asavali paithanis. Before weaving the sari the raw silk which is obtained from Bangalore is cleaned with caustic soda. Then it is dyed into the different colours required. The silk threads are then separated by the women and then they are ready to be woven. The whole family is involved in the weaving of the sari.
