The rich heritage and culture of India prompts the Indian inhabitants to decorate themselves with the rich variety of ornaments made from various metals especially from gold. India is supposed to be the only country where the jewelry plays a significant role in the adornment of personal embellishments. The people of India, led by superstition, believed that the ornaments would help them to keep away from destructive forces. Gold jewelry art in India, since the remote past therefore played a major role.
At the early age, jewelry of stones, pebbles, and some other natural objects were used but after the initiation of the metals in India, the trend of wearing gold ornaments had been developed due to the glint and the durability of the metal. This further paved the way to the introduction of gold jewelry art in India whilst popularizing it to the core.
The archeological excavation holds the account that gold jewelry art in India was prominent even in the ancient days. It had been discovered that in the long gone days the people especially women would use little clothing but they would bedeck themselves with ornaments. A naked dancing girl, alluring and bedecked with ornaments and bangles on one arm stretching from the wrist almost to her shoulder had been found in the Harappa excavation. Almost a similar art of sculpture of minimum attire and a profusion of ornaments was found through the excavation of Gandhara and Gupta period. All these indicate the presence of gold art in India even in the days of ancient rimes.
In the later years the Mughal emperors encouraged the gold jewelry art in India. The Mughal jewelries represented an incredible high standard and quality. Mughal Empire had amalgamated the Hindu and Muslim trends and made a fusion in the styles of gold jewelry art in India. The Mughal emperors by establishing "kharkhanas" and employing artisans from different sects of excellence encouraged this amazing art in India. The enameling in gold jewelries was also introduced by the Mughals. Enameling as a gold jewelry art has been well adored and is still practiced in various parts of India like Nathdwara, Jaipur, Varanasi and Kolkata. Enameling is categorized in various types as in India it is recognized as `champleve`. An alternative of enamel is known as `tbewa` which is found in Pratapgarh, Rajasthan in a small amount. After the termination of the Mughal Empire the artisans moved to other places and the gold jewelry art of the Mughal period was merged with the crafts of the other places.
The gold jewelry art which was prevailing gained a rich contour with the western influence in Indian art and craft. The setting of gems in gold ornaments is an example of this western influence which became a famous gold jewelry art in 19th century India. Although India maintained the tradition of the jewelries that are engraved with gem stones and semi precious gems from the early history of the ruling emperor, yet the western influence offered a rather contemporary touch to it.
The jewelry of different places differs from one another and each type carries a speciality of their own. The original abode of the snake chain is Kilhapur in Maharashtra. The snake chain has gained its popularity in Hyderabad in recent times. The ornaments such as `odiyaanam`(gold waist belt), `jimikki`(eardrop), `vanki`(armlet) are commonly used in all parts of South India. Some of the popular gold ornaments used in various parts of India are `paambadam` which are a great lump of gold and are in all one piece represent six earrings, worn by the rural Tamil women. The earrings for Tamil men are known as `kadukkan`. `Kammal`, `Jimikki` , `Lolakku` are some forms of earrings for women in Tamil Nadu. In western and Southern India `Mangal Sutra` (a gold pendant hanging from a necklace of black gun-metal and gold beads) is considered to be a symbol of the marital status of a woman and is considered as an auspicious sign of marriage.
The gold jewelry art has earned its fame in India and is well admired for its dazzling but elegant look.
