
Gold jewellery craft in India is deeply embedded to nation`s history and has been influenced by foreign cultures which have resulted in an amalgamation with several changes. The rich heritage and culture of India prompts the Indian inhabitants to decorate themselves with the rich variety of ornaments made from various metals especially from gold. India is considered as the only country where the jewellery plays a significant role in the adornment of personal embellishments. The people of India, led by spiritual and superstitious beliefs, believed that the ornaments would help them to keep away from destructive forces.
Gold jewellery art in India, since the remote past therefore played a major role.
At the early age, jewellery of stones, pebbles, and some other natural objects were used but after the initiation of the metals in India, the trend of wearing gold ornaments had been developed due to the glint and the durability of the metal. This further paved the way to the introduction of gold jewellery art in India whilst popularizing it to the core.
Gold Jewellery Craft in ancient India
It is evident from various archaeological excavations that gold jewellery craft in India was prominent even in the ancient days. It had been discovered that in the earliest days the people, especially women, would use little clothing but they would bedeck themselves with ornaments. A naked dancing girl, alluring and bedecked with ornaments and bangles on one arm stretching from the wrist almost to her shoulder had been found in the
Harappa excavation. Almost a similar art of sculpture of minimum attire and a profusion of ornaments was found through the excavation of
Gandhara and
Gupta Empire. All these indicate the presence of gold art in India even in the days of ancient times.
Gold Jewellery Craft in India during Mughal Era

During the later years, the
Mughal emperors encouraged the gold jewellery craft in India. The Mughal jewelleries represented an incredible high standard and quality. Mughal Empire had amalgamated the Hindu and Muslim trends and made a fusion in the styles of gold jewellery craft in India. The Mughal emperors, by establishing Karkhanas or workshops and employing artisans from different sects of excellence encouraged this amazing art in India. The enamelling in gold jewelleries was also introduced by the Mughals.
Enamelling as a gold jewellery art has been well adored and is still practiced in various parts of India like Nathdwara,
Jaipur,
Varanasi and
Kolkata. Enamelling is categorised in to various types, as in India, it is recognized as Champleve. An alternative of enamel is known as Tbewa, which is found in
Pratapgarh district, Rajasthan in a small amount. After the termination of the
Mughal Dynasty the artisans moved to other places and the gold jewellery art of the Mughal period was merged with the crafts of the other places.
Gold Jewellery Craft in India during 19th Century
The gold jewellery art which was prevailing gained a rich contour with the western influence in Indian art and craft. The setting of gems in gold ornaments is an example of this western influence which became a famous gold jewellery art in 19th century India. Although India maintained the tradition of the jewelleries that are engraved with gem stones and semi precious gems from the early history of the ruling emperor, yet the western influence offered a rather contemporary touch to it.
The jewellery of different regions differs from one another and each type carries a speciality of their own. The original abode of the snake chain is Kilhapur in
Maharashtra. The snake chain has gained its popularity in
Hyderabad in recent times. The ornaments such as Odiyaanam (gold waist belt), Jimikki (eardrop), Vanki (armlet) are commonly used in all parts of South India. Some of the popular gold ornaments used in various parts of India are Paambadam which are a great lump of gold and are in all one piece represent six earrings, worn by the rural Tamil women. The earrings for Tamil men are known as Kadukkan. Kammal, Jimikki, Lolakku are some forms of earrings for women in Tamil Nadu. In western and Southern India
Mangalsutra, a gold pendant hanging from a necklace of black gun-metal and gold beads, is considered to be a symbol of the marital status of a woman and is considered as an auspicious sign of marriage.
Gold Jewellery Craft has evolved through the decades and still holds lot of significance in the Indian culture. It has attained a whole new level in India and is well admired for its dazzling as well as elegant look.
(Last Updated on : 20/01/2012)