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Jewellery in South India

South India has its rich culture of wearing traditional jewellery. The traditional stone-encrusted jewellery is very popular and it has its reached peak here. The popular ornaments of South India include the `Uddiyaanam` (gold waist belt), `vanki` (armlet) and `Jitniki` (eardrop). These ornaments are traditionally crafted and finished with great dexterity.

The South Indian jewellery, `Jitniki` is a bell-shaped ear jewel, which is set in coloured stones with pearls hanging at the lower end. It is worn on the lower lobe of the ear. The Jitniki hangs from a lotus shaped `kammal` of diamonds or rubies. Few other beautiful jewels worn by South Indian women wear are `Maattal` (ear ornament), `Adijjai` (choker), `Maangaamaalai`, `Thali` or `Matigalasuthra`, `Kaasumaalai` (a long chain of gold coins) and `Jolusn` (anklets).

In Tamil Nadu, gold is the major material for jewelleries and the most liked gems are the diamonds, rubies and pearls. The expertise of the jewellers of South India is proved from the making of the ornament the `Jada nagam`, which is an elaborate hair ornament. It also visually summarizes a number of concepts. In south India, `naga` or snake is assumed to be a symbol of fertility and procreation and so the Jada nagam is worn as a special ornament. The naga crowns are a type of ornament whose shape is like a multiple-headed cobra. The `Jadanagam` is worn in a way that it covers the braid. Its snake-like form accentuates with the fall of the hair and the shape of the plait underneath, ending in `kunjalams` or `tassles`. The three strings of the braid is said to represent the three sacred rivers Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati.

The `Mangamalai` or `mango necklace` is another beautiful jeweller worn by the South Indian women. It is long and heavy with mango shaped pendants set with the gems, usually rubies. The fan-shaped pendant of the Mangamalai is fringed with pearls. The `thali` is another ancient traditional jewellery of South India, which signifies the constancy of love in marriage. The antiquity of this jewellery can be traced back to very early Tamil literature. It has again different varieties.

Now, in modern South India, the jewellery trend is quite different form the North. The South Indian women now wear gold jewellery, flaunting and enjoying the jewelleries even when elaborate accessories are not needed for the occasion. The body jewelleries have also become very popular among the South Indian women. It may be a scarf made out of gold, an intricate sheath of gold that can be used as a belt or even long bands worn around the arm. The buffaloes are regarded as very sacred and the ornaments made for the buffaloes are decorated with earnest care as much as the Todas themselves. The horns of the buffaloes are decorated with Cowrie shell, which hang over their horns and a silver chain hangs low around their neck.

The wearing of feathers of hornbill is regarded to be a great honour. The hornbill is said to be a magic bird of great power, which shines with courage and splendour. Now days, wearing the antique ornate jewellery have become fashion among the South Indian women. Most of them wear these antique jewelleries very gracefully. A South Indian woman wearing the traditional kaasumalai is considered to be of high class and status. The chain comprises of coins flowing from neck to waist and is still very popular in the South.

The traditional floral patterns, glittering stars, swans and lotus patterns, which used to be favourites earlier have become popular again in South India. One of such popular old jewellery is the `Mullai mottu malai`, which has replicas of jasmine buds all around it. These jewelleries keep intact the traditional style of making but the design is kept contemporary so that a good blend of traditional and modern jewellery can be offered to the new generation.

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